Halloween Forum - Tutorials and Step-By-Step

Halloween Forum - Tutorials and Step-By-Step http://www.halloweenforum.com/ Post tutorials and step-by-step instructions of your props and decor. en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:39:40 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.halloweenforum.com/fusion/misc/rss.jpg Halloween Forum - Tutorials and Step-By-Step http://www.halloweenforum.com/ <![CDATA[Glowing "hot" coals ...]]> http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86951-glowing-hot-coals.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:41:34 GMT I searched the site for all the key words I could think of but didn't find anything like this so here goes ...

First, want to give credit to someone named "Goldie" at Instructables . com for the basis of this idea. My changes are not earth shaking - more like adaptations to create a "heat" source for "cooking" up some goodies in cauldrons in our new Witches Coven.

Here is a pic of the final results in low light with Cauldons setting on the prop.

Materials:

A "fire bed" shaped per your needs, made of anything from foam board to 1" plywood. Whatever suits your needs and how well you want it to hold up year after year. - Craft store or Hardware store
Several strings of lights to your choosing. I used one string of 150 Orange lights with a controller (button selects differnt flashing patterns), two strings of 50 orange lights, two strings of 25 purple lights and one string of 50 orange and purple (same bulb) lights. I think that last string was not necessary. - available anywhere - got programmable lights off of ebay, be patient there
Wiffle balls of as many different sizes as you can find. I found softbal sizes, hardball sizes, and golf ball sizes. I also used a few orange pingpong balls. The quantity will depend on your taste and the size of your fire bed. I suggest you buy one package of each size and add more later as you like. - most came from Walmart
Fire grate - optional dependent upon your application. I used four tree supports landscapers use to hold up a newly planted "small" tree. - Landscaping section of a large hardware store
A few Screws. - hardware store
One piece of 3/4" plywood about 12" x 14" (very optional). - hardware store or your scrap bin
A small bottle of acrylic craft paint in gray - think ashes. - Craft Store
Great Stuff expanding foam - my "fire bed" required alomst all of two cans. - hardware store

Tools required.
Something to cut your "Fire bed" to the size and shape for your application. Could be an exacto knife or a Utility knife for cardboard or foam board to a circular saw or jig saw for plywood shaping.
A good Hot Glue gun and lots and lots of sticks.
What ever you need to cut your grate if you use one. I use my sliding compound miter saw and a drill press (for the vericle supports), but you could get by with only a hand saw.
Screw driver

Steps:

1. Decide / cut to size and shape, your "fire bed." Keep in mind that the larger the "fire bed," the more components you will need, but the greater the impact, IMO. Also, I think the programmable lights really improve the affect but should NOT be used without some other lights staying on all the time.

For the picutured prop, I used a rectangular sheet of 1/4" plywood about 4' 6" long by 20" ... because that's what fit the intended display space.

2. If you intend to use a grate, determine where you want the verical supports and mark those locations on your bare "fire bed" material. Our plan required extra support in the middle where we have a "boiling" cauldron of eyeball soup brewing - filled with water and floating eyeballs. Water is heavy and could ruin the prop if the grate breaks. BTW the pics don't show this well because the water was low and the mist was high at the time.

3. Cut your wiffle balls in half. If you want your surface to be uneven, cut some balls at 3/4 of their height rather than half.

4. Spreadout the lights on the "fire bed" in a very irregular. Take care not to infringe upon the vertical support areas. I tried to group a good mix of the different featured lights as much as possible, but some remained by themselves and that's ok too. Have one of the cut wiffle balls handy to give you and idea of the space needed for the groupings.

Most crutial here is the placement of the control box for the programmable lights and the accessability of the male plug that will power the strings of lights. Try to have enough length to it that it can extend away from the prop to better hide the power source ( I didn't do this well on mine).

More in the next post..... ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step LT Scare http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86951-glowing-hot-coals.html Haunt Entrance Gate http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86929-haunt-entrance-gate.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:51:49 GMT I was so glad I had time to make this just before Halloween. I thought if I had an impressive entrance to the haunt, it would help set the mood. Also, I needed something to be obvious that this was the entrance to the garage haunt. Following my stained glass theme, I made sections of it like stained glass and illuminated it with LED Christmas lighting.

After a while I won't be able to edit this thread with updates or lessons learned so please go to my album page for the latest additions: Halloween Forum - Terra's Album: Tutorial: Haunt Entrance Gate

This is a very large gate (8' x 6') so it is made of two halves (8' x 3') plus an optional inner curtain structure (8' x 5'). It also lights up. This tutorial does not show how I made the optional inner curtain but in the next step I will give a quick instruction. You could also simply attach curtain material to the back of the foam facade.

Materials Needed:

Two 2' thick 8' x 4' pink or blue styrofoam sheets
Foamboard adhesive
Acetone (can get at beauty supply)
Drylok (water-based)
Exterior flat latex paint (I used a warm brown)
Black acrylic/latex paint
White acrylic/latex paint
Raw Sienna artist's acrylic paint
Green acrylic paint
Paper towels
Cheap clear corrugated roof sheet (around 3' x 8')
Several vibrant colors of acrylic paint
Green sheet moss
1" pink or blue foam sheet
60" 20 gauge wire
6 small zip ties
Glue sticks
Two string sets of 100 LED lights
Margaritas (keeps you happy)

Tools Needed:

Jig saw
Sharpie marker
12' ruler
Caulk gun
Dremel with Multi-purpose cutting attachment
Stanley SureForm Shaver
Bowl
Basic brush
2" brush
Detail brush
3" brush
Tin snips
1/2" brush
Thin brush
Hot glue Gun
Wire cutters

Optional Inner Curtain:

Materials:
Black material (I used landscape fabric)
Six 1" x 2" x 8' Furring strips
2 1/2" wood screws
Wood glue
3 screw hooks

Tools:
Jig Saw
Drill
Drill bit for wood screws
Scissors

Here is the design of the gate on square paper. Five squares equals a foot or 2.4" a square. Assembled gate is 8' tall and 6' wide.

The gate is made of two halves of assembled foam. The outer doorway (outer foam panel) half piece is 3' wide at the top of the arch, 8' tall and 13 1/2" wide at the pillar. The inner doorway half piece (inner foam panel) 86" tall and 9 1/2" wide at the pillar. Remember, these are half measurements.

Stained glass facade pattern. This is 10" tall and 7 1/2" wide.

(Not pictured) Optional inner Curtain instructions: Lay out four 1" x 2" x 8' furring strips vertically on the workbench. Spread the center apart to make an opening of 31 1/2" wide. Place a 61" 1x2 at the top of the strips and 6' from the bottom place a 31 1/2" 1x2. Place four 12" 1x2's at the bottom and center of the two pillars. Screw all these together using wood screws. Glue fabric using wood glue to the whole thing (both sides) and cut slits in the fabric where people would walk through.

Top picture: Place the inner curtain over your first sheet of 2" foam and center it. Lightly draw where the walk-through is and remove the inner curtain. The opening should be about 6' tall and 31 1/2" wide.

Measure from the center of the bottom to the top 86" and mark. Now measure from one of the bottom edges up to 5' and mark. Draw an arching line from the top center mark to the 5' mark. Cut that side of the foam off using the jig saw. Take the cut piece of foam and flip over and trace out the arch shape on the other side (like a mirror image). Cut that side out too with jig saw. Leave the inner doorway foam intact for now.

Middle picture: (Warning: I honestly don't know how to explain verbally what I did here.... Basically, it's best to think this through on your own. You are trying to get as wide of a top span as you can (3') out of a 4' wide piece of foam yet still have a wide enough space for the other pillar at the bottom to make sense. So you trace out one piece from the bottom and then trace out the second piece from the top.)

Anyways, here's my attempt at an explanation, sorry...Place the cutout foam offset over the second sheet of 2" foam 13 1/2" from the edge. Lightly trace out the doorway frame of the first piece. Flip over and trace out the other side. Make sure the top span is 3' wide. Notice that at the bottom of the pillars it will have a chunk of about 2" missing. That's because you need that to achieve the 3' span at the top. I hope that wasn't confusing. Cut out with the jig saw.

Bottom picture: Overlap the outer doorway over the inner piece by 2" and use foamboard adhesive to glue the edges together. Put weights over the foam and dry overnight. btw: Use scrap foam to support the overhang so it doesn't bend while drying.

Design out how you want your door to look or follow my design. I decided on columns, stonework and stained glass. Cut out the doorway using your jig saw. Then separate the remaining arch into two pieces by cutting the top of the inner arch in half.

How to get the see-through section of stained glass: Find a pattern you like and trace it onto the foam. Alternately, you could cut out the pattern I provided. The pattern is designed to be butted up to itself and repeatedly traced out.

Flip the foam over and using the Dremel with the multi-purpose attachment, cut out 1 1/4" deep channels many times so you can then 'pop' off the foam to bring the depth down to 3/4". Using the Stanley SureForm Shaver, smooth out the back. Then flip it back over and cut out the traced designs using the Dremel.

Shaping the foam

(By the way, continue to use the leftover 2" foam pieces to support the outside doorway so it doesn't bend or flex while you are carving the foam.)

Columns: Using the Stanley SureForm shaver, drag it down the center of one of the lines of a column. Angle the shaver and shave away one half of the line. Then do the other half. Repeat for all the lines of the column. At the top of the column I carved in ledges using the edge of the shaver.

Stonework: You can use a cobble pattern or a straight stone pattern. I ended up liking the straight stone pattern better. So, using that Surform Shaver, first carve out the grout lines. Then add different angles to the stone itself. Soften the edges of the stone using the shaver.

Misc.: I cut in some lines at the top of the inner doorway following the arch curve. Then, I went went all over the edges and softened them up to help give a worn stone appearance. Continue to shape the entire foam doorway until you get a design you like.

Cracks: Take the edge of the shaver and hack in a crack. Then carve out the rest of the crack using lines splitting out from the main one. This takes guts to do, so, take a big swig from your Margarita. heh.

To give the stone that etched, ancient look, put some straight acetone into a bowl. Dip your basic brush into it and fling the brush over the foam so acetone strikes it in droplets. By flinging I mean like you are trying to fling a spider off the end of your brush. Be a bit aggressive here. You want some splattering! I had the gate on the floor to make it easier to do this. Keep doing this until you get the look you like.

Continued next post..... ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86929-haunt-entrance-gate.html New Crawling Skeleton (Part 2) http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86832-new-crawling-skeleton-part-2-a.html Sat, 14 Nov 2009 02:24:35 GMT Bottom view of Wing Board

STEP 4: Wiring Motors: The left side motor crank needs to turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE for the skeleton to have forward motion. In turn, the right side motor crank will need to turn CLOCKWISE for forward motion. Twist the two wires of the AC/DC adapter to the left side motor wires. Plug into power and observe which way the crank turns. If it turns CLOCKWISE, just swap the two wires. (Changing the polarity on a DC motor will make it turn in reverse.) Repeat the same steps with the right side motor wires. If the right side motor crank turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE, just swap the two wires. Once everything is correct, solder the wires and use heat shrink or electrical tape to insulate them.

STEP 5: ARM ASSEMBLY
RIGHT ARM----Cut a length of 1/2" diameter PVC pipe 13+1/2" long. Measure 3+1/2" from one end and use a 7/64" drill bit to drill a hole all the way thru the opposite side of the pipe. This will be the end that attaches to the motor crank. Measure 3/4" from this first hole along the side of the pipe and drill another hole. (NOTE: Starting with this hole and all remaining holes -DO NOT DRILL ALL THE WAY THRU THE PIPE TO THE OTHER SIDE, ONLY TO THE MIDDLE.) Now drill as many hole as possible between these first two holes. Then use a dremel tool with a cutting disc to cut out the area between all of the holes. This long cutout needs to be about 1/8" wide all the way across. Mark this side of the PVC pipe as the FRONT side.
Turn the PVC piece to the opposite side using the small hole we drilled all the way thru as a guide. This will be the REAR side. Measure along the pipe 5/8" from this first hole that was previously drilled and drill another hole (be sure not to drill all the way thru the pipe). Like before, drill as many holes as possible between these first two holes then use the dremel to cut out the areas between the holes. Make the gap approximately 1/8" wide again.

These long holes we are making allow the arms to pivot properly as the skeleton makes it's crawling motion while also keeping the arms from slipping off the motor crank carriage bolt.
Cut a short 1" piece of 1/2" diameter wooden dowel rod. Insert it into the motor end of the PVC arm piece about 1/2". Secure it in place with a small screw. This helps to keep the carriage bolt snug against the arm as it rotates.
Cut another 13+1/2" section of PVC and repeat all of STEP 5 for the LEFT arm.

STEP 6: Attaching Arms
Mark the middle of the 1+1/2" hole in the RIGHT WING. Drill a 1/8" pilot hole on each side of the arm hole. Slide the motor end of the right arm onto the motor crank bolt. Slide a 3" piece of coat hanger wire thru the gaps we drilled in the PVC. (This is basically the AXLE for the arm.) Use two #8 flat head screws and flat washers to secure the axle to the right wing.
Repeat STEP 6 to attach the LEFT arm.

STEP 7: Arms/Hands

The easiest way to make the arms is to use the upper and lower arm pieces of a cheap blow-mold skeleton. Cut a hole in each end of the upper and lower arm bones from a Blucky skeleton. Layer each bone with paper mache and then a coat or two of latex paint after drying. NOTE: I use cheap paper towels and two parts Elmer's Glue and one part water for the paper mache mixture. Slide the upper arm bone onto the LEFT arm PVC piece. Use a small screw to secure it in place. Attach a 1/2" PVC 90 degree elbow onto the end of the left arm PVC . Cut a 10" section or 1/2" PVC . This will be the LOWER arm. Slide this piece into the 90 degree connector and then slide the lower arm bone onto it. Again, use a small screw to secure it in place.
Repeat all of the previous steps for the RIGHT arm.
For the hands I used coat hanger wire to shape the fingers and added wads of masking tape for knuckles. Then covered the fingers in more tape (see picture). Paper mache each hand the same way as the arms and then add a coat or two of latex paint. Once finished, cut a slot in the end of the PVC “wrist” and slide the back end of the hand into it and secure it with a screw.
Age the arms and hands as desired at this time.

STEP 8: RIB CAGE

Cut a piece of ¾” diameter PVC 16” long for a backbone. Drill eleven small holes thru the side of it at approximately one inch intervals. I used a 3/32" drill bit for the small holes. Place the PVC section on top of the motor mount board, against the right side motor mount hole. Mark the spot where a hole can be drilled for a #10 X 2" Machine Screw to go through PVC. Drill the mounting hole approx. 3/16" in diameter all the way thru the PVC. I then added a 1/4" nut between the backbone and the motor mount hole in order to center the backbone. Mount backbone with the bolt and secure it temporarily with nuts. Slide lengths of coat hanger wire through small holes and bend each side up and then around and curve under to make each rib (see picture). Use the width of the chassis as a guide to conform your ribs to the shape of the skeleton. It takes some patience to get the overall shape of a rib cage. Take your time. To give each rib some thickness I then slid sections of 3/8” clear tubing over each rib.
Paper mache the ribs and backbone and cover with one or two coats of latex paint. Age the rib cage as desired at this time.

STEP 9: Skull and NECK

I used a full size styrofoam skull and separated the lower jaw from the upper skull part. I then used an exacto blade to cut out some of the teeth and also thin out the area behind the teeth. Use some thin wire on each side of the jaw to re-attach it to the skull. Let it hang down loose, with the mouth open, to make it look more menacing. After that I used various colors of acrylic paint to color the eye sockets, nose, teeth and any other highlights you desire.

For the neck, cut a section of ¾ “ PVC about 8” in length. Use a 45 degree angle PVC connector on the top end of the rib cage PVC pipe to connect the neck piece to the rib cage "backbone". (You may have to cut out a small section on the bottom of the elbow piece to allow it to slide over the board that the rib cage is mounted to.) To attach the head to the PVC neck you can use a section of pool noodle inside the skull and just slide the PVC pipe into it.
Or , as an option you can screw a small plastic pulley (from a dishwasher) onto the bottom of the skull. I then took another 45 degree PVC elbow and cut out a squared section at the top of it with a dremel tool. Use a small piece of 3/4" PVC pipe to connect the two 45 degree angle elbows together. I then used the dremel to shave the sides of the plastic pulley so it would slide into and fit snugly in the top PVC elbow. This way you can turn the head and change it's position if desired.

STEP 10: Final Assembly
Run the DC Adapter wires along the center board and out the back of the skeleton. Tape or tie wrap the wire along the way, making sure it won't snag on any moving parts. Keep in mind the skeleton pulls the adapter along as it crawls, so put a knot in the wire somewhere and use a wood screw to secure it to the center board. (This will prevent yanking the wires out of the motor housings.)
Plug in the skeleton and allow the arms to rotate until one arm is just touching the ground. Rotate the PVC connector at the elbow clockwise a bit until the hand is about an inch or so off the ground. Repeat this step for the other arm. The skeleton seems to crawl better when adjusted like this. I also hot glued some "Creepy Cloth" to hang at the wrists and elbows.
Lastly, I use a wireless key fob type remote control (Lowe's carries them) so I can start and stop the skeleton as desired.

THAT'S IT !! ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step DaveintheGrave http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86832-new-crawling-skeleton-part-2-a.html New Crawling Skeleton (Dual Motor) PT. 1 http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86826-new-crawling-skeleton-dual-motor-pt-1-a.html Fri, 13 Nov 2009 21:21:29 GMT NEW CRAWLING SKELETON
(Dual Motor)

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v630/DaveNT...

PARTS LIST
(1) 4 FT. X 1/4" thick Craft Board (or similar) NOTE: This board actually measures 3+1/2" by 1/4" thick.
(2) 5 RPM Gear Motors (Electronic Goldmine)
Section of 1" X 2" wood (about 1 foot)
(1) AC/DC Adapter, 500 milliamp (or more) (Electronic Goldmine)
(1) Foam Skull
(2) Blucky Skeleton Arms
1/2" Plywood (about 1 square foot)
1/2" Diameter PVC Pipe (about 4 feet)
(2) PVC 1/2" 90 degree Elbows
(1) Large L-Bracket
(2) Small L-Brackets
(2) 1/4"-#20 X 1+1/2" Carriage Screws
1/8" thick Flat Aluminum Stock (about 5 inches)
(2) 1/4"-#20 X 1/2" Machine screws
(5) 1/4" Lock Washers
(5) 1/4" #20 Nuts
Coat Hanger Wire
2 Feet small gauge WIRE
(8) #8 X 1" Wood Screws
(2) 1+5/8" Deck Screws
(4) #8 X 3/4" Pan head Screws
(4) #8 Flat Washers
(2) #10 X 2" Machine screws
(2) #10 Nuts
Clear Tubing, 3/8" Diameter (about 15 feet)
3/4" Diameter PVC pipe (about 2 feet)
(1) #10 Lock Washer
(2) 3/4" diameter PVC 45 degree Elbows
Paper Mache Solution
Paper Towels

PART 1: CHASSIS ASSEMBLY

STEP 1: Take the 1/4" thick craft board and cut it to a length of 14+1/2". We need to cut a rectangular shaped notch out of the bottom of the board starting at 2+1/2" from the front end. (This notch will fit OVER the 1X2 piece.) Butt the end of the 1X2 against the side of the craft bd. Trace the shape of the 1X2 with a pencil and cut out the notch. Saw off the front of the craft bd. at an angle (see picture), starting on top about 12" from the rear.
Cut the 1X2 to a length of 10+3/4".

STEP 2: Measure 3" back and 1+3/4" up from the rectangular notch and drill a 9/32" hole. (These motors have a small nipple molded on the back side, just opposite of the motor shaft. This hole will help to position the two motors with their shafts exactly opposite of each other.)

MOTOR PREPARATION: Take the ½” long, ¼” diameter #20 screw and hold it on top of the square hole in the motor shaft. You will see the screw is slightly bigger than the square hole in the shaft. What we want to do is use a screwdriver to force the screw into this square hole, basically “tapping” a threaded hole for this screw, which will later hold the crank to the motor. Use a pair of pliers tightly around the outside of the motor shaft to hold it while using your screwdriver and turn the screw clockwise and force it into the square hole. It might help to brace the motor against a wall or table top (while still holding the shaft with the pliers) to be able to use enough force to get the screw started. Be patient, sometimes it goes easy, sometimes it takes a while. Once the screw starts to rotate into the shaft hole, try to keep the screw as straight as possible as it goes further into the hole. Keep turning it until the head of the screw is about 1/8 inch above the top of the motor shaft. Just leave the screw in for now.

The easiest way to solder the DC Adapter wires to the motors is to open the motor casing and solder the wires straight to the internal motor terminals. Use a small flat head screwdriver to pry the 5 tabs on the side of the motor. Hold the motor with the SHAFT SIDE DOWN and lift off the REAR of the motor casing. --NOTE: Be careful not to allow the inside gears to fall out!-- Lay the motor flat on a table. You'll see the two gold colored pin connectors below the small silver motor. Grab each of these and give a slight pull to remove and discard them. Note the two small terminals on the bottom of the silver internal motor. Cut two 6 inch pieces of spare wire and solder one wire to each motor terminal. (You can lift the motor slightly from it's housing to make room for attaching the wire.) After soldering the two wires take the REAR motor casing and look inside. A small bit of plastic needs to be trimmed from this piece at the area where it sits right on top of the two motor terminals. ( The wire and solder we used, even though it's very small, is enough to cause the two motor casing pieces to not snap together properly when re-assembled.) So just trim about 1/16" of plastic on each side of the little half circle and this should allow the motor halves to go back together properly. Before snapping back together, run the two wires toward each other and down (through the area where the two gold outer pins used to be) and out the bottom of the motor half. One on each side. Make sure they lie flat in the small grooves. Finally, snap the REAR motor casing back on and make sure all tabs are engaged.
Repeat the above steps for MOTOR #2.

Cut a piece of 1/8" thick, flat aluminum stock approximately 2 ½ inches long. This will be the CRANK for our motor. Drill a 1/4" hole at one end.
TIP: When drilling through a thick piece of metal I start with a very small drill bit and then keep using slightly bigger bits until I finally move up to the size bit that I want the hole to be.
At the opposite end of the crank drill another 1/4" hole, measuring exactly 1+3/4 inches from the first hole (center to center). Put one 1/4" nut onto the 1+1/2" Carriage Screw and turn it until it is at the top of the screw. Add a 1/4" lock washer behind the nut. Leave these in place for now. Insert the carriage screw into one of the 1/4" holes. Install another 1/4" lock washer and nut onto the carriage screw on the back side of the motor crank. Turn the nut until the bottom of the it is flush with the bottom of the screw. Lastly, tighten the first nut (near the top of the screw) down toward the motor crank until it is tight. Remove the ¼” screw from the motor shaft and slip a ¼” lock washer onto it. Insert the screw through the large crank hole and screw the crank onto the motor shaft until it is tight.
NOTE: A specialized part called a "Spherical Rod End" (see pic) can be used in place of the carriage bolt as an option for turning the arms. I have found this particular part to be difficult to find, but I used these on my original version of the Crawling Skeleton and they are very useful for this application. Different mounting procedures would be needed to attach the rod end to both the motor crank and the arm PVC.
Repeat these steps for MOTOR #2.

Only two of the three motor mounting holes will be used to attach each motor to the vertical board. (See picture for correct orientation of the RIGHT side motor.) Make sure the small nipple on the back of the motor is in the 9/32" guide hole. The top (unused) motor mount hole will stick up above the board. This will be used later for attaching the rib cage to the unit. Mark the location of the REAR motor mount hole. Drill a 3/16" hole thru the board at this mark. Hold the right side motor in place and position the LEFT side motor on the other side of the board. The LEFT side motor will be mounted UPSIDE DOWN from the RIGHT side motor. This allows the two rear mounting holes to line up for the mounting bolt. Insert a #10X2+1/2" long bolt through the left side motor's mounting hole, thru the board, then thru the right side motor's mounting hole. Add a #10 flat washer, lock washer and nut to the bolt and just hand tighten the nut for now.
Hold the RIGHT side motor tight against the board, making sure the nipple is in the guide hole. Insert a 1+5/8" wood screw thru the FRONT motor mount hole and tighten. Repeat this step for the LEFT side motor. Lastly, tighten the nut on the #10 bolt holding the rear motor mounts. The two motors should be flat against the board and secure now. Lay the 1X2 bd. flat and mark the middle of it. Stand the 1/4" craft bd. up and place the notch over the 1X2 board. Use a large "L" bracket to secure the two pieces together at the middle you just marked.
(NOTE: You may have to trim away a portion of the bottom (unused) mounting hole on the LEFT side motor in order for the unit to sit flat on the ground like it should.)

STEP 3: WING BOARDS: Saw two pieces of 1/2" plywood measuring 4" X 6". Take one board and measure 4+1/2" horizontally and 2" up vertically and mark this spot. Drill a 1+1/2" hole at this point. Trim away the top 1" of the wing board and cut an angle on the front of it. (See Picture). Lay a section of 1/4" plywood under the 1X2 chassis board as a spacer. Stand the plywood wing on its side, flush with the front of the left end of the 1X2. Drill a pilot hole thru the wing and the 1X2. Screw in a 1" wood screw to connect the two pieces. Install a small "L" bracket at the corner on the rear where the wing bd. and the 1X2 meet.
Repeat these steps for the RIGHT side wing board.

ON TO PART TWO....... ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step DaveintheGrave http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86826-new-crawling-skeleton-dual-motor-pt-1-a.html Corpse Leg Frame. http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86764-corpse-leg-frame.html Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:43:28 GMT Hello! I'm building a new project! This time its Corpse Legs. Very easy to make some legs! This is only the frame paper mache is one more day.

Disclaimer: WARNING THIS USES POWER TOOLS. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURES
Okay now thats over here we go

Materials:
1 8 foot 1x2
2-4 L brackets
Screws
Duct Tape (Almost out! lol)
Cardboard (like waffle boxs and cereal boxs) Make sure it can bend
Newspaper

Tools:
Drill or screw driver
Staple Gun
Hammer
Miter Saw or Hand Saw
Sissors

First Step:
Take your 1x2. Use your leg as a guide.mark were your knees are. Your can scale it down (thats what I did). Now cut were you marked. the top part of the leg should always be shorter then the shin. With that get your L brackets. Take your hammer and on a hard surface hammer were the angle is to make it a a bigger angle. Or just leave the 90. Screw them in with your drill and screws.

Second Step:
This is were you will give your leg(s) some meat!. Get your cardboard and cut it on the creases in the cardboard. Start at the shin. Each layer will get bigger and bigger.

Staple at the back.

Do that all the way up to the top. Like this

Thrid Step:
Take your newspaper and start stuffing the inside make it pretty firm. Do that to the top and bottom parts.
After that you have to make the knee. Take a big piece of paper crumple it in a ball and put it at the knee joint. Duct tape it really good

Then you have to duct tape all the seams to make it all flow like a real leg.

Also duct tape the back were the staples are and the ends of the legs.

Heres the set of legs I built. These will be corpsed with paper mache.

Thats that! This was a very easy project. It just take a little effort. The best thing about this it only costed me the L brakets that were like 2 dollers for 4.
and the wood that was a doller $5 bucks not that bad. If you have any questions please post in here or PM me!

-BYH ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step BackYardHaunter http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86764-corpse-leg-frame.html Graveyard Fence http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86553-graveyard-fence.html Thu, 05 Nov 2009 19:13:53 GMT Here's my first tutorial, hope it helps.

How I created my graveyard fence:

The horizontal cross bars are made from pine 1x2x8 boards. The vertical bars are created from 1/4" electrical conduit (looks like PVC pipe, but they are grey in color). I cut the 1/4" conduit into 3' sections, which left the last remaining section with the flaired end longer (about 4' long).

Here's a couple of pics of when I was cutting the vertical bars:

Here you just make out the flaired end on the longer pieces that are upright leaning against my house:

Next I used a hole saw bit on my drill to make holes every six inches on the cross bars, and then slid the vertical bars through the holes:

Once it was all even I screwed the bars into the cross bar. I first started out drilling the hole first and then screwing it together. However, I quickly found out that I could just dispense with the pilot hole and screw it straight through. Only a couple of minor cracks. Screws I used:

Here's the fences before painting (notice the longer flaired bars on the ends, and all bars are even at ground level):

I used cheap spray paint (about $1 per can) that I got from Lowe's (Helpful suggestion - Get a good spray can grip like this one. It will save your fingers a lot of cramping. Trust me.)

Painting:

Here's the Pièce de résistance; the finials really make the whole thing come together. This is a link to Steel Supply, L.P. where I ordered the finials: Steel Supply, L.P.

I used wooded dowels about 6" long with the end wrapped in duct tape to hold the finials, and to make a tight fit into the vertical bars (this way I can remove them later if I wish). I ended up putting finials on my tall end bars, but I thought about putting the tops of tiki torches on 'em; or maybe mount skulls, etc. Just ran out of time this year.

Here's the fences in place with nothing on the top of the end bars:

I cut rebar into 18" stakes that I drove into the ground leaving about 3-4 inches above the ground and just set the fences onto the rebar. I only did the end posts and it was pretty solid. You could add more in the middle if you wanted, but keep in mind that the rebar going up inside the vertical end posts will hit the screws if they stick out too high above the ground.

Any questions? ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step MokkNoir http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86553-graveyard-fence.html The making of Beetlejuice http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86385-making-beetlejuice.html Tue, 03 Nov 2009 02:50:01 GMT I bought the wig on eBay for about $20 after S/H, got the sportcoat, tie and pants from the thrift store for $5 total, and the cream based makeup at a Spirit Halloween store.

I taped stripes on the pants and jacket, using 1.5" masking tape.

I then used black fabric paint.

I was very pleased/surprised to see how straight the lines were when I removed the tape.

The final product.

Makeup and wig closeup

I had a lot of fun dressed up as Beetlejuice. Countless people approached me and wanted to take a picture with me. I can't count how many times someone yelled "Beetlejuice, Beetlejuice, Beetlejuice!!!" at me!!! I will definitely bring this costume back in a few years! ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step Hamil$tein http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86385-making-beetlejuice.html Cemetary Caretaker http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86266-cemetary-caretaker.html Mon, 02 Nov 2009 03:40:29 GMT here is my cemetary caretaker he is very much influenced by Dead Spider's. I used a mix of normal paper mache, celluclay and creative paper clay.

THE HEAD

the base for his head just a cheap foam scull. I split cut it with an exacto.

I also hollowed his sockets a little more for the eyeballs(not pictured).

His eyeballs are Fimo Clay formed to fit the sockets painted.

Covered him in mache and fit glued the eyes in

His lower jaw has a tongue and teeth made from paper clay, painted and sealed for a glossy finish. I also bulit his jaw up with celluclay

He recieved upper teeth as well and then he was glued and more mache built with celluclay and regular paper mache.

]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step Mizerella http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/86266-cemetary-caretaker.html PVC Fence Jig http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/85647-pvc-fence-jig.html Tue, 27 Oct 2009 07:44:58 GMT So here I am, four days before halloween, just finished my 8 new columns and now need to make over 50+ feet of PVC fence/fence. Depending on how you make it, you might find that you need to drill over 200+ holes! I just coudnt imagine measuring, marking, and what ever else you need to do to get them in the correct place at 11pm Solution? PVC Fence Jig. MAKE: Take a foot of your fence materal and put side rails on it. Drill one hole the size of your pvc pipe at one end and place a short pipe in it (it needs to be centered correctly). Mount it to your drill press so that the drill come down on the other end the distace you want from from the first hole. (make sure youre centered on the wood correctly) and lock your drill press table so it dont move on you. by now you shoud have this. Attachment 7939 (http://www.halloweenforum.com/attachments/tutorials-step-step/7939-pvc-fence-jig-img_5870.jpg) USE: If needed, remove pipe and drill first hole (if starting from middle and working out) Attachment 7941 (http://www.halloweenforum.com/attachments/tutorials-step-step/7941-pvc-fence-jig-img_5872.jpg) or if exact distace of fence is not required. just start on one end, just push the board in till it hits the pipe and drill. clean wood shavings with airgun, move new hole to pipe hole and place over pipe. Attachment 7942 (http://www.halloweenforum.com/attachments/tutorials-step-step/7942-pvc-fence-jig-img_5873.jpg) drill new hole, clean, put over pipe. Attachment 7943 (http://www.halloweenforum.com/attachments/tutorials-step-step/7943-pvc-fence-jig-img_5875.jpg) repete process till done. Attachment 7944 (http://www.halloweenforum.com/attachments/tutorials-step-step/7944-pvc-fence-jig-img_5876.jpg) If your using the push it in from the end to start method, when you get to the last hole, just tap the drill on the wood to get the ring mark, use the ring mark a cutting guide hack off the scrap at the end and it will match the other end. My pipe was a tad lose so it is not 100 percent exact, but darn close! If I was to remake this, the only thing i would change are the side rails by making them a tad shorter so the drill shavings could clean off eaiser. I had planned to drill two boards at one time, but just didnt work well for me. Drill, blow, lift, slide, drill, blow, lift, slide, drill, blow, lift, slide, drill, blow, lift, slide..... new board.... Drill, blow, lift, slide, drill, blow, lift, slide, drill, blow, lift, slide, drill, blow, lift, slide..... new board.... 200 holes later i start to wonder if EFX could figure out how to do this using a prop1...... So here I am, four days before halloween, just finished my 8 new columns and now need to make over 50+ feet of PVC fence/fence. Depending on how you make it, you might find that you need to drill over 200+ holes! I just coudnt imagine measuring, marking, and what ever else you need to do to get them in the correct place at 11pm

Solution? PVC Fence Jig.

MAKE:
Take a foot of your fence materal and put side rails on it.
Drill one hole the size of your pvc pipe at one end and place a short pipe in it (it needs to be centered correctly).

Mount it to your drill press so that the drill come down on the other end the distace you want from from the first hole. (make sure youre centered on the wood correctly) and lock your drill press table so it dont move on you.

by now you shoud have this.
Attachment 7939

USE:
If needed, remove pipe and drill first hole (if starting from middle and working out)
Attachment 7941

or if exact distace of fence is not required. just start on one end, just push the board in till it hits the pipe and drill.

clean wood shavings with airgun, move new hole to pipe hole and place over pipe.
Attachment 7942

drill new hole, clean, put over pipe.
Attachment 7943

repete process till done.
Attachment 7944

If your using the push it in from the end to start method, when you get to the last hole, just tap the drill on the wood to get the ring mark, use the ring mark a cutting guide hack off the scrap at the end and it will match the other end.

My pipe was a tad lose so it is not 100 percent exact, but darn close!

If I was to remake this, the only thing i would change are the side rails by making them a tad shorter so the drill shavings could clean off eaiser. I had planned to drill two boards at one time, but just didnt work well for me.

Drill, blow, lift, slide, drill, blow, lift, slide, drill, blow, lift, slide, drill, blow, lift, slide..... new board....
Drill, blow, lift, slide, drill, blow, lift, slide, drill, blow, lift, slide, drill, blow, lift, slide..... new board....

200 holes later i start to wonder if EFX could figure out how to do this using a prop1......

Attached Images

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	IMG_5872.jpg (78.6 KB)
	IMG_5873.jpg (74.7 KB)
	IMG_5875.jpg (79.4 KB)
	IMG_5876.jpg (72.4 KB)

]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step gravedigger greg http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/85647-pvc-fence-jig.html Fluorescent/Glow in the Dark Chalk http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/85381-fluorescent-glow-dark-chalk.html Sun, 25 Oct 2009 01:48:41 GMT This may be old news, but it's new to me.

OUt of desperation, and due to a total lack of the availability to BUY the dang stuff, I made my own flourescent sidewalk chalk tonight.

Simply mix some flourescent or glow in the dark paint into some plaster of paris in place of some of the water. I'm using temp

I'm sure there's some optimal mix of the two for the best glow, I don't know about that, just happy I now have some sidewalk chalk for the kids to decorate with. :D gotta buy more colors tomorrow.

(The 7 is flourescent spray paint, everything else is my new chalk)

]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step UnOrthodOx http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/85381-fluorescent-glow-dark-chalk.html jack the pumkin scarecrow http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/85246-jack-pumkin-scarecrow.html Fri, 23 Oct 2009 14:20:58 GMT Here's a plan to make a jumping scarecrow. Since I'm not an engineer, follow it loosely. Go to the site to see it in action at
horrorween333

Attached Images

scareBuild.jpg (88.1 KB)

]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step radu http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/85246-jack-pumkin-scarecrow.html Magnetic Boarded up windows http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/85150-magnetic-boarded-up-windows.html Thu, 22 Oct 2009 15:52:45 GMT Hi all, this is my first tutorial so forgive me if it's kind of n00b.

Searching this forum has yielded many awesome ideas for boarding up house windows, but many of them involve either hard mounting wood to your window frame, or use some sort of adhesive Velcro. Having moved into a new home, I needed a clean solution, no holes, no residue. So I have made my boards to mount magnetically to my window frames.

STEP 1 - Secure some magnets:

The type of magnet I use isn't the store bought kind. The run of the mill black magnets do not have enough hold power. Instead I use Neodymium magnets. These are rare earth magnets that I harvested from defunct hard drives. There's a ton of info that you can Google on harvesting these magnets so I won't go into of those details here. I'll just say that these magnets are incredibly strong, and free if you have access to old computer hardware, or have some old hard drive sitting around doing nothing. Recycling is good!

Step 2 - Measure the Windows:

Easy and straight forward. Make sure you get all the dimensions, length, width, depth of the frame and also point of attachment. For my needs, I needed to build a frame that was 57" high, 33" wide and attachment point 29 inches up from the bottom of the window frame. I also needed a depth of 3" so that when I mount the horizontal slats, they would actually overlap the window frame instead of sitting inside of them.

Step 3 - Gathering Materials:

Here is what is needed:

- A good supply of 1x2's, I got mine at Home Depot, cost about $1.50 each. The amount needed will depend on the dimensions of your windows. For I only needed a single 1x2 per window.

- Screws, I used deck screws for my build.

- Duct Tape, never leave home without it.

- Paint, mainly black, but also a lighter gray, make sure it's latex acrylic. Other paints may dissolve the EPS foam.

- EPS foam board. This will be used to make the actual boards for the window.

- Velcro (optional if you want a non-permanent build, get into that later)

- Glue, I use well bond, it's awesome stuff.

- Sand Paper, medium grit for sculpting he foam.

STEP 4 - Making the frames:

So to keep the frames lightweight and easily storable, these frames are 'H' shaped. I did this mainly because my attachment point is mid window. I marked and cut two 57" pieces and a single 33" piece from each 1x2.

Because I needed a 3" depth, the horizontal 33" piece is laid flat, and the 2 57" pieces are attached on edge with one screw. I also used the scrap end of the 1x2 and screwed it into the center of the 'H' as another spacer to give the frame a little bit more depth. Use the duct tape to wrap around the horizontal piece to reinforce the 1x2 as it may start to crack a little when putting the screw in.

Assemble as many as you need.

STEP 5 - Making the Slats:

*SAFETY NOTE - WEAR A MASK WHEN SANDING EPS FOAM, IT'S NOT GOOD FOR YOUR LUNGS*

Using a sharp utility knife, I cut the EPS foam board into 2x36" pieces. Again the length will vary depending on the size of your windows. I figured I needed 4-6 slats per window to achieve the look I wanted.

Using the sand paper, I then sanded details into the foam. I cut out a 3x3 square and fold it in half. Using this edge I can then carve out wood detail, adding chips, splinters, etc to the foam. I also go over the whole piece with a light sanding to give it a roughness. It also helps the paint to stick better.

Make as many boards as you need.

STEP 6 - Paint:

Using the black paint, paint all the 'H' frames and EPS slats. It may not be necessary to paint the back of the 'H' frames as they will be out of view. For the slats, make sure you get paint into every nook and cranny. Some of the deeper detail might get missed and you will have pink spots after the paint has dried. Allow at least 24 hrs of dry time before the the next step.

STEP 7 - Dry Brushing:

Now we are going to add detail using the gray paint. Lightly dip the tip of the brush into the paint, getting very little on it. Then using the paint can opening, brush off even more paint from the brush. The idea is to have as little paint on it as possible.

I start with a single stroke across the top of my boards first to get the wet edge off of the brush. No one will really see the edges so it doesn't have to be perfect. Then I use random sweeping patterns, in all directions until I achieve the look I want. It may take more than one pass. Take your time in doing this, otherwise you may end up with brighter areas of paint that are hard to cover up. Make sure you get the left and right edges too as they will be visible.

STEP 8 - Putting it all together:

First thing to do when the 'H' frames are dry is to attach the Neodymium magnets to the horizontal brace. I used painter's tape as I don't want a permanent attachment. Simply wrap the tape around the magnet and frame a few times. Just make sure that you don't overdo it, as this weakens the magnet a little bit.

I used Velcro as I didn't want my slats to be permanently affixed to the 'H' frame for storage reasons. If that's not a problem for you, glue them into place.

Finally stick the sucker onto the window frame making sure that the 'H' frame sits on the bottom of the window sill. The picture below is the assembled prop stuck to my garage door.

Here are a few on the house, the rest of the windows will be done as well.

There you have it, a good secure way of doing boarded up windows without having to drill, nail or adhere anything to the house. Thanks!

*UPDATE*

So far so good, survived 1 light snowstorm, 1 heavy, wet snowstorm, and a few high gusting wind situations. Wind is blowing 30-40 km/hr right now and the boards don't budge. The webbing I put up however looks like poo. Gotta redo them before the big night. ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step DezzyLee99 http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/85150-magnetic-boarded-up-windows.html snot rag hand http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/85017-snot-rag-hand.html Wed, 21 Oct 2009 04:39:08 GMT My applogies if this has been posted before i could not find it.

I took some stiff wire and cut it the length of my hand pluse about 3 inches or so. duct tapes it together about where the wrist would start then i bend the wires to shape the hand in kind of curled position. To keep the fingers where i wanted them i took a piece of floral wire and bound the wires at the hand section to keep them in position.

Then i covered it with makeup facial cotton squares kind of stretched out a little. I dont' have a pic of this stage i will when i get to it on the new hand. I took a small ball of rolled up tinfoil and put it for knuckles (hindsight tells me to put the balls under the cotton on the next one not on top)

Then i took a glue/water mix and dabbed it on the cotton and started adding a single layer of tissue (snot rags) layers to the whole thing.

After i put about four or so layers of tissue on it i was satisfied. i thought about painting it but wanted it to react to the black lights since i'll have it hanging over a grave, but the black light was not reflecting so *light bulb over head* i had just read the tutorial on the cheese cloth ghost and tada i took some Rit whitener & brightner and dabbed it on the hand and tada it glows!!! nice part is i did not dab the whole thing and the parts that are not done look like they are rusty looking almost like dried blood!!! I was excited lol.

]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step UCIooBAkeeP http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/85017-snot-rag-hand.html Corpse Hands. NO CRAZY LATEX! http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/84635-corpse-hands-no-crazy-latex.html Sat, 17 Oct 2009 03:02:59 GMT Well I coulded find that "molding" latex. So I tryed a method with simple materials. This is just the outside coating. The frame of it is another day and thread.

Supply List:

White Exterior Latex Paint (Any Finish I used satin)
Paint Stick (Optional)
A plastic or latex glove (I found to use your hands is a alot easyer and doesnt rip off your cotton balls)
Hot glue gun
Hot glue
Cotton balls
BAD CLOHES TO WEAR! Important!

Extras For Painting:

Acrylic Paints (Brown, Dark Green, Black, Red)
Paint Brush (Just those cheapo doller tree ones)
Piece of paper/cardboard (to put your paints on)

First Step:
Warm up your hot glue gun. Run beads of hot glue along and s t r e t c h out your cotton balls along. Same way for the fingers to just wrap them arourd.

Second Step:
Mix up your paint with the paint stick (Optional). You should do this outside or a well vented room. Put on your plastic/latex glove dip your hand in the paint with the glove on. Put a good amount on to cover all the cracks but leave some.(If you like the look).
Sorry for the night picture its the only time I have to work.

Let it dry for at leased 9-12 hours (depending on how much paint you put on). Sometimes theres a little to much paint in spots and still wet some check before to paint the way you want.

Thrid Step: (EXTRA STEP YOU CAN CUSTOMIZE THE WAY YOU LIKE IT)
Paint it the way you want OR I have a few ways to due it.
First I covered it in brown acrylic. Then let it dry got olive green acrylic paint and a brush and dry brushed it on. (This was my first hand I did).

Another way I did it is
A base layer of brown. Let that dry for at lease an half an hour. Intill dry to the touch.

Then I mixed a little of brown, black and red on a sheet of paper. To go for a deep dark red. I got my brush dry brushed it on. Let that dry.

Then a super light brushing of a dark green.

The one on the right came out the best the one on the left needs a light more green.

That's it! Very easy way to get easy materials in any home store and craft store!
Hope You Liked It! This was also my first time at this and I loved it!
Any questions PM me or post in here.

Thanks!
-BYH

A THANK YOU HAS TO GO OUT TO drkreepy1 on youtube. Thanks dude! ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step BackYardHaunter http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/84635-corpse-hands-no-crazy-latex.html Chauvet 1300 Fog Timer hack.... http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/84532-chauvet-1300-fog-timer-hack.html Fri, 16 Oct 2009 03:01:11 GMT I needed to control my new Chauvet 1300 Hurricane fogger using a Boobox Pico Boo F104.

I looked around the forum and saw a number of posts on the Fitco and cheap timers. Those are very helpful, but my new fogger has DMX control with a 5 pin connecion to the fogger.

The PicoBoo Controller is a very simple DC controller with 2 Relay outputs and 2 minutes of sound. The important thing is that the Relay outputs will handle 120volts which makes this mod very simple.

USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!! This mod will use 120volts of electricity! This tutorial is only recommended for someone who has a basic understanding of electricity.

The fogger in question:

The challenge I had, was that I only needed to make a very short burst of fog. It is all controlled by a pressure mat on the PicoBoo. I couldn't find any information on how to work with the remote timer (5 wires in there and this thing is brand new, so I didnt want to take too big of a chance)

As I looked at the fogger, I noticed that it had a momentary button to manually produce fog. These types of buttons basically just close the circuit to fire off fogger.

The red FOG button in the middle of the case is where we are headed.

UNPLUG THE FOGGER
UNPLUG THE FOGGER
etc....

There are 10 very small screws on the outside of the case that must be removed to get to the guts. The handle does NOT have to be removed to gain access.

You may have to loosen the fitting holding the fog juice tube to remove the cover. Mine was hand-tight and very easy to release.

Make sure you have UNPLUGGED the Fogger!!!

This next picture shows the back left side of the fogger. This is where all the wiring is at.

Look for the bunch of white wires that go through the back panel to the FOG button, and then trace them back to the circuit board. Mine ended in a small white plug with some red marking on it.

The plug end is barely visible in the upper left corner of this picture. It is the top-most plug, but you shouldnt have any problems following the wire from the back FOG button to this plug.

Unplug the wire from the circuit board, then remove the FOG button. There is a sort of release on the top and bottom of the FOG button that both need to be pressed, then the button and the wire will exit out the back of the fogger.

Looks like this when removed.

The wire is only about 12-14 inches log. I have just placed it on top of the fogger to take a picture.

What we need to do now, is strip a small amount of the wire from each side of the pair. We are going to solder a NEW piece of wire that will eventually go to our controller (or remote button, or whatever).

There will be 120 volts going through this wire so I HIGHLY recommend you STOP right now if you dont have any experience with Electricity.

I soldered my new wire to this control wire and routed the new wire out the back of the Fogger to my controller.

It is very hard to see in this photo, but the Black Wire running 'north and south' is the new wire.

I have mentioned that we are working with electricity here, so before I tested, I put the entire fogger back together again (in reverse) to make sure there was no chance of getting shocked.

About the only possible thing someone may find a little tricky, is that when you are putting the FOG button back in, you must feed the wires in from the backside THROUGH the hole, then push the button in place and put the wire back on the circuit board.

To test, once the fogger is plugged in, all you really need to do is quickly touch the ends of your new control wire together and you should get fog.

Mine were connected to my PicoBoo and worked like a champ.

I hope this help someone else who is trying to slip a quick prop in at the last minute.

]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step trent1k1 http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/84532-chauvet-1300-fog-timer-hack.html