Halloween Forum - Tutorials and Step-By-Step http://www.halloweenforum.com/ Post tutorials and step-by-step instructions of your props and decor. en Thu, 20 Jun 2013 10:28:39 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.halloweenforum.com/images/styles/scarydark/misc/rss.png Halloween Forum - Tutorials and Step-By-Step http://www.halloweenforum.com/ Master Fog - Homemade Fog Chiller Tutorial! http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126965-master-fog-homemade-fog-chiller-tutorial.html Fri, 14 Jun 2013 17:38:26 GMT Hey Haunters,

We just put together a fog chiller video tutorial. Please feel free to check out the link below! Don't hesitate if you have any questions on how to make one for yourself. We think this is the best design out there!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6HIO6dAGyY


Thanks,
Vince

Mater Fog, LLC ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step masterfog http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126965-master-fog-homemade-fog-chiller-tutorial.html <![CDATA[Scary spiders so cheap and easy ,,, you're gonna love me!!]]> http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126930-scary-spiders-so-cheap-easy-youre-gonna-love-me.html Wed, 12 Jun 2013 16:42:31 GMT fist. get the recipie for dryer lint clay. make a good size batch of it... I'd say a few cups of it.


Make a spider out of tin foil and tape...

[IMG][/IMG]

Then apply dryer lint clay onto the frame and let dry well.... once dry you can paint. I'm going to coat this with glow in dark paint..

[IMG][/IMG]

The texture is awesome for spiders!!!!! This cost almost nothing to make and you can make so many of them. I think this is going to be good for bats too.

Dontcha love me now? :o ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step MamaGrizzly http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126930-scary-spiders-so-cheap-easy-youre-gonna-love-me.html HowTo: Zombie Mask http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126798-howto-zombie-mask.html Tue, 04 Jun 2013 09:06:26 GMT Hey Guys, I´ve just posted a Zombie Mask Tutorial. Maybe you like it :) http://youtu.be/7LdSASpG2zY Dont know how I can show this video... Hey Guys,

I´ve just posted a Zombie Mask Tutorial.
Maybe you like it :)
http://youtu.be/7LdSASpG2zY

Dont know how I can show this video directly here in the forum :( ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step Stefan Schäfer Photo http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126798-howto-zombie-mask.html Need Help with Cauldron Slime http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126666-need-help-cauldron-slime.html Sun, 26 May 2013 00:41:36 GMT Well, after finally determining that I am the only haunter in the universe that did not have a Cauldron Creep I made one. Got most of it finished... Well, after finally determining that I am the only haunter in the universe that did not have a Cauldron Creep I made one. Got most of it finished and the cauldron is complete except for painting the strapping and making it look a little rusty and....putting the cooking slime around the rim. This is where I need some help. I have seen several cauldrons that you all have made that really look cool with the slime. However, I have never used Great Stuff for anything and I don't know what the proper techique would be to put slime on the rim of my cauldron. Do you use a back and forth motion, just glob it on, use a circular pattern or what? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Here is a photo of the cauldron almost ready for the slime.
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]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step Scary Papa http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126666-need-help-cauldron-slime.html glass eyes http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126614-glass-eyes.html Wed, 22 May 2013 01:00:56 GMT these glass eyes are very easy to make and cheap to make: glass gems: from dollar tree (in the craft section) clear,yellow clear,white acrylic... these glass eyes are very easy to make and cheap to make:

glass gems: from dollar tree (in the craft section) clear,yellow clear,white

acrylic paint: paint the clear glass one on the flat side with a iris ,your done

another way is to paint over the iris once it is drys with white paint ,it looks more real

the best ,easiest and most realistic way is to use Tarra's print out eyes on photo paper (Tarra's Halloween eyes) ,cut out and superglue the paper to the flat side and your done, i do not know how to put the link here but i'm sure someone can put it here or do a search

i have used several ways to attach them to props: roofing nail super glued to the back of eye and pushed in to wig head ,hot glue,elmer's glue
they all work good.
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]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step LAKE OF THE DEAD http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126614-glass-eyes.html Chopstick Wands http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126598-chopstick-wands.html Mon, 20 May 2013 20:02:26 GMT Okay, I was asked by a few people on the Mini-Reaper to put together a tutorial on wand making, so here we go; This is a pretty simple thing to do... Okay, I was asked by a few people on the Mini-Reaper to put together a tutorial on wand making, so here we go;
This is a pretty simple thing to do and pretty fun at that. You need just a few things to put it all together. First get a bag of wood chopsticks. I got a 12 pair pack at Wally world for 2.97, so 24 wands for three bucks! You also need glue gun and paint. Optional items can be beads or other things you might want to use for texture


The first step is to simply start coating the ‘handle’ of the wand with hot glue in any pattern that you want. You got 24 sticks, play with them to see what pattern you like best!



I added a row of beads to this one to give it a different texture, more of a ‘carved’ look



Once you get them to where you’re happy with them, give them a base coat of paint. I usually go for a darker color for the base, but play with colors to get different looks.



Once the base coat dries, dry-brush a contrasting color. You are done, enjoy your wand!



Close up showing how dry brushing gives a little more life
 ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step BR1MSTON3 http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126598-chopstick-wands.html <![CDATA[Graffiti'd Tombstones]]> http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126392-graffitid-tombstones.html Sun, 05 May 2013 21:02:46 GMT Here's a new twist you can add to your graveyard: Graffiti! Adding graffiti can help make your graveyard transform from the traditional classic Victorian to a gritty, urban one that could fit perfectly in a post-apocalyptic or zombie outbreak-type haunt.






Here's the tutorial video that will give you a quick grasp of how to achieve this look:









It's a dramatic change but remember - you can change it back.



Materials and Tools Needed:
Dual action airbrush like this: http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/...eclipse/hp-cs/
Compressor (I use the shop's compressor)
Airbrush water-based paints or thinned acrylic paints
Tea-staining paints (black exterior paint, raw sienna, raw umber)
Dish washing liquid
2" brush






"Sketch" the Design (picture 1): Use white or black paint to sketch out the basic design on the stone. You will be painting over it but this gives you a starting base. Many graffiti styles gets their cool look by adding more and more layers of detail.

Pick the Base Color (picture 2): Paint over your design with the base color you want.







Outline (picture 1): Outline the design using a different color. You can add zigs-zags to the line to help give you something to build a 3D effect if you'd like. Add depth by figuring out what angle the viewer will be looking at the design and add a shadow to the opposite edge. Fill in.

Highlight (picture 2): Use simple, fuzzy white streaks near the top to give the design a highlight to help bring out that 3D illusion.







Make it Vibrant (picture 1): Pick a third color and help make the design active and vibrant by outlining the outside edges fuzzily.

Sharpen (picture 2): Go back and repaint that first outline to make it sharp again. Add any other accents you like also (Ex: red dots).




Continued.... ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126392-graffitid-tombstones.html Clown head on spikes http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126387-clown-head-spikes.html Sun, 05 May 2013 10:25:03 GMT Attachment 153311 (http://www.halloweenforum.com/attachments/tutorials-step-step/153311-clown-head-spikes-main.jpg) Attachment 153312... Name: main.jpg Views: 474 Size: 99.7 KB Name: main2.jpg Views: 410 Size: 101.4 KB
ITEMS NEEDED

Old Mask (any will do) I buy mine just after Halloween, when people sell there costume off on ebay or stores lower the prices to clear stock.

Chicken Wire

Great Stuff (expanding Foam)

Small Bucket/ Bowl (mine is a haribos sweets container)

Black Masking Tap

Cheap Clown Wig preferable color-full

3 Foot Long 1.5” Plastic Drainage Pipe preferable white

Small Bag of Post Cerement You can do at least 3 out of a small bag

Plastic Knife or Chopper Optional

First take the mask and covered the mouth and eye hole on the inside of the mask with the tape. Then take the chicken wire and make a head sized ball and place it in the mask. Then pad it out in places, so it fills the head fullly, making sure there is a space in the centre to add the pipe later on down the line.
I then suspended the mask, so it would not distort, when filling with the expanding foam. (I tied string to the chicken wire and attached other end to my ladder so it hunger freely.) Now add the great stuff, remembering not to over fill it. You want the bottom to only slightly to ballon out so it looks like a severed head.
The head on the left hand side was an over fill of the mask on the right. I managed to get the mask off and then add the eyes, nose and mouth/ teeth with das clay.
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Next I took the Bucket, drainage tube and cerement. Placed the bucket on floor, half fill with cerement compound, then centered the drainage pipe add water to compound and leave to harden. Make sure the pipe is vertical, I braced mine between two benches.
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When the head and bass have hardened, take them both and line the pipe up on the head and turn it around and ad pressure the pipe should cut in the foam. when 6-8” in stop take it off and add glue to the pipe and re-enter it.
Now paint it, bucket white, mask white, add the black masking tape vertical to the bucket with equal spacing, the horizontal up the pipe. There is so many great clown make up designs on the internet, pick that one you want. then paint the exposed foam in blood colors, browns and reds and run it down the pole and in to the bucket. Don't forget to a high gloss varnish to the blooded and make up areas.
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Then use a saw and make a cut in the top of the head and add a prop Knife or chopper. Then cut up the wig in to clump of hair and make up a strange design any thing goings. You can add bow ties, squirting flowers, at my party i tied helium balloons to them.
Hope this help any one and questions please post below and if you make one please add you pics to this post, it would be great to see other design.
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]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step TWISTEDUK http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126387-clown-head-spikes.html Flaming Tiki Torch for under $6 http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126322-flaming-tiki-torch-under-6-a.html Wed, 01 May 2013 01:09:57 GMT For a little under $6 you can make a decent, inexpensive flaming tiki torch for use in your haunt. Super easy to do. Nice nighttime effect. So... For a little under $6 you can make a decent, inexpensive flaming tiki torch for use in your haunt. Super easy to do. Nice nighttime effect.

So last week I was playing around with the Flaming Torch Lights I had bought from Oriental Trading and realized I could combine these with inexpensive Dollar Tree tiki torches and make a quick prop out of them. Dollar Tree has the Tiki Torches featured in their stores this week BTW. Look for straight, undamaged bamboo poles. You are only going to need the poles for this so don't worry about the color of the oil/wick can it comes with.


You will need the following:

* ORIENTAL TRADING COMPANY's "Flaming Torch Light", IN-16/552, $3.75 each
* Tiki Torch. Mine was from DOLLAR TREE but they are sold all over during spring/summer time, $1.00
* 2 - AA Batteries, Dollar Tree, $1.00
Optional: rafia, bones, spider webbing, Spanish moss, etc. for customizing


Here's a photo of the Oriental Trading Flaming Torch Light and Tiki Torches I used.



DIRECTIONS:

1. Set aside the wall mount for the torch light. Save it and repurpose for a castle wall-mounted flaming torch later perhaps.

2. Next careful remove the raffia strips on the tiki torch that support the tiki oil can and wick. I cut mine off with a box cutter. There will be some glue used to adhere it to the can and the remaining pieces can be gently pried off without damaging the bamboo prong. You will not need the can/wick either. The tiki torch with the raffia removed is also shown in the above photo; this area will now fit the OT Flaming Torch Light like a glove as seen in this next photo.



3. Insert 2AA batteries into the Torch Light.

4. Place the Torch Light down inside the bamboo prongs until the rim of the Flaming Torch Light sits in the tiki torch with the rim above the bamboo prongs (see photo). The pressure of the bamboo sections will hold the light in place but you could also add raffia tied around it for additional support. Even a rubber band for example would work.

NOTE: There are two metal contacts on both the upper portion of the light and on the lamp stem. These two sections (upper and lower) need to make contact with each other or the LED light will not come on and just the fan will blow the silk flame without being lit. This is NOT mentioned in the diagram on the box so don't forget it or you might think your light is broken.

5. To turn your new battery-operated Flaming Tiki Torch off and on, use one hand to grasp the top part of the torch and reach with the fingers of the other hand inside the split bamboo prongs to twist the stem so that the batteries make contact. You should be able to do this with the Torch Light in place in the tiki torch or you can do this ahead of time and position it once on.

6. Option decorations: Additional raffia can be tied around the upper torch area. You could add bones, feather, spider webbing, small skulls, etc. to the raffia as well. You could paint the torch I suppose but use spray paint made for plastics. Be careful to maintain clean metal contacts.

For the silk flame to flutter, you will need to maintain the airflow going to the fan. I recommend leaving the stem and lower vented torch portion of the Torch Light unobstructed for best performance.

ADDITIONAL NOTE: Bamboo poles will have splinters, especially where the pole was split to form the prongs, so use caution when handling.

7. You are now ready to mount you Flaming Tiki Torches on the ground. I have Tiki-brand cast iron torch stands that I will probably use for this purpose (available at various sources including Walmart and lawn and garden centers carrying Tiki-brand products i.e. Home Depot). But anything that will support a pole could be a possible solution.

Here's the final photo of the new Flaming Tiki Torch in a darkened room. Doesn't give off a lot of light but the flame is visible and it does look pretty cool. I had mine on last night for a number hours on a fresh set of AAs and it was still running fine when I turned them off to go to bed. If you don't use additional raffia securing the torch to the bamboo, you can easily pull the Torch Light out and change batteries and be up and running quickly.




Enjoy. Just in time to try out ahead of time during the summer! ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step Ghost of Spookie http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126322-flaming-tiki-torch-under-6-a.html Mask Latex and Brush Longevity. http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126239-mask-latex-brush-longevity.html Wed, 24 Apr 2013 03:14:47 GMT Ok, you're all set to begin your corpsing and you start thinking to yourself "damn I'm almost out of brushes! I need to remember to get some more." Well if this is you I have a tip that will make your brushes last a bit longer.

An art instructor gave me this bit of advise at the University of Montana yesterday and I just thought I would pass it along. I tried it today... It works (Somewhat, but better than doing nothing)

Before you begin dunking your brush into liquid latex and generously applying it to your skull, skele or what ever you want to foul up try dunking your brush into water.

I know simple right? Well it works ok. but what I found out is that it works better than ok when you finish and take your brush to the sink and put a few drops of good dish soap on the brush and run your nails over and through the bristles. I managed to get most if not all of the latex out of my brush doing this. So I have finally found a way to make my brushes last longer than one or two applications. Water first (instructors Idea) then latex and finish with dish soap and water (my Idea) worked like a charm.

Don't know if you already knew this but hey I haven't seen anything on here about it. :D ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step ecto1 http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126239-mask-latex-brush-longevity.html Cheesecloth Ghost - BOO! http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126216-cheesecloth-ghost-boo.html Mon, 22 Apr 2013 12:58:01 GMT So I was on Pinterest one day and came across these... Attachment 152572 (http://www.halloweenforum.com/attachments/tutorials-step-step/152572-cheesecloth-ghost-boo-cloth-ghosts-phobias-1011mld107647_vert.jpg) So... So I was on Pinterest one day and came across these...

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So after looking them up I realized they were in fact a Martha Stewart creation. Say what you want about Martha but she's done time...she's fairly bad ***. So I thought this would be a perfect addition to my upstairs window and may help me cover up the huge fish tank I have in my foyer. The instructions were fairly easy. Apply 4 layers of cheesecloth with fabric stiffener or watered down white school glue, let dry, and remove head.

I started my quest for materials on eBay. I got 20 yards of white cheese cloth ($24 CAD) and a Styrofoam mannequin head ($6 CAD). I bought a gallon of white school glue at home Hardware for $8, mainly because my Dad works there and I got his discount. It was normally $18. I got a latex paint brush, which cost my husband $7. Because he is nice and buys me stuff like that. Now because I had a brainwave halfway through getting my supplies I also bought fabric whitener from Wal mart. I thought it would look extra cool if I put my ghosts under black lighting. Finding the fixtures and bulbs is another story :S

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So I cut four 5' sections of the cloth. Draped the first layer over and brushed on the glue. It went on fairly easily and was very easy. Make sure to get the brush right into the detail though.

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I applied 4 layers in the same way. No need to dry in between layers. And I criss crossed applying the fabric so it had a pointed kind of appearance at the bottom.

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I tied a piece of yarn around the bottom to maintain of the detail from the chin and the sides of the head. Which turned out to be a mistake. As it dried the glue/water mixture soaked down the cloth and got about 5 inches wet below the chin line where I brushed it on. So now it has a funny line where the string was tied.

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I let it dry overnight. This morning I tried to remove the mannequin from the cloth....not gonna happen. The glue has completely adhered to the Styrofoam. The best solution I can come up for this is to possibly coat the head in Vaseline prior to applying the glue mixture. In the grand scheme of things I am willing to let the mannequin head go, and ordered 2 new ones off eBay to use for my window displays. I ordered male form heads this time as I think the features are more prominent and will be easier to see from the upstairs windows.

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Now the next part of the process is to get a hold of some black lights. I have never used them before and after some research I have decided to buy fluorescent fixtures and the 4' bulbs. My dad is pricing out the fixtures as we speak and I am on the hunt for some tubes. I will post new pics after I obtain these materials and find out how my ghosts glow!

Thanks for reading!

HAPPYHAUNTING :)
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]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step VGhoulson http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126216-cheesecloth-ghost-boo.html Halloween street sign how to http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126196-halloween-street-sign-how.html Sat, 20 Apr 2013 16:30:58 GMT Halloween street sign how to.
What you will need:
12' piece of abs black pipe 1 1/4",two 45 Degree elbows, one 90 degree elbow
Scrap plywood 1/2" preferred 2' by 2' should be enough
Gorilla glue
A heavy base to mount it to.
Flat black spray paint
Hole saw 1 1/4"
1 1/4 u brackets
Optional, spray glue and toilet paper. (No I wasn’t sniffing glue when I thought of this)

Cut the pipe into 4 sections, one 4' piece and three 1' pieces. The 1' pieces will be your bend.
Connect the 4' piece to your base and test fit the rest of your pieces like in the picture.
45 degrees at the top and bottom of the bends and 90 degree in the middle

If you’re happy with the height then take it all apart and cut a hole towards the bottom of the 4' section for the cord to come out. Like this. If you want it a little taller substitute the 4' piece for the 5' piece that was leftover.
Run your power cord up through the pipe as you assemble (it’s much easier this way).I used gorilla glue and small screws to secure everything. Do not glue or screw you last 1' section you will need this separate.
Get your plywood and cut a base for your pumpkin to sit on. The size of the base should be large enough so the pumpkin will not teeter. Use your hole saw to make a hole in the middle of your pumpkin base. Lay your base on some newspaper and stand the pipe in the hole. Use a liberal amount of gorilla glue.

After the glue is set you can attach it to the rest of the sign.
This next step is optional but cool if you know people will be looking at this close up
Take you spay glue and squirt a few areas where you think rust would form. Use my sign for reference. Let the glue get really tacky then take a wad of toilet paper and scuff the area until there is paper left behind.
Take the sign outside and break out the black spray paint. Concentrate your first coats on the lettering on the pipe and the paper areas. Your second and third coats should cover the pumpkin base and the rest of the pipe. Attach your pumpkin to the base with gorilla glue and test your light. Just to see if it’s bright enough.

While that sets you can work on your street signs. I roughly measured my height and width. Precision is not key. The rougher looking the better. But if you want measurements then...( 4.5" high and 12.5" wide). I painted the base color first then I used a projector to apply my font.

After that is dry you can attach them to your pipe with the u brackets as shown. You will notice that the bracket won’t reach the sign. I just bent it a little and let the screws do the rest. I like this better as it provides a nice tight fit.
Time to detail. Remember those areas with the toilet paper those provide the texture for the rust.
If you have a rust color on your pallet the you’re good to go if not the just mix a pumpkin orange with a few drops of brown until you get the shade you like.
Dip just the tip of a stiff small brush in the rust and lightly dab the areas so it will look like rust coming through the paint. I then used a 1" stiff brush slightly dampened and applied a little silver paint to the brush. I then began "dry brushing the entire pole to give it some high lights. Repeat this processes until you are happy. The rust and silver can be applied to the signs for added effect if you wish.
I took the sign outside one more time to "age" the signs. Lightly, dust the signs with some black spray paint.
The leafs were bought at the dollar store to give the pole some color.
You could also use Spanish moss to hang off the corner sections.
Well that’s it. This was my first "how to ever" so be gentle with me If you feel I failed to explain something. If there are any questions, just post them here, I'll answer as soon as I see them. ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step hallowicked http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126196-halloween-street-sign-how.html horns for my stolloween heads http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126103-horns-my-stolloween-heads.html Sun, 14 Apr 2013 02:04:30 GMT so im doing a couple of stolloween heads and i was stuck on the horns i didnt know how to make them suddenly i came across this things kids use for... so im doing a couple of stolloween heads and i was stuck on the horns i didnt know how to make them suddenly i came across this things kids use for the pool that someone trew away and the worked preety well hope its useful for someone
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]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step Esteban Cruz Schifferli http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126103-horns-my-stolloween-heads.html Chained Werewolf http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126081-chained-werewolf.html Thu, 11 Apr 2013 22:28:20 GMT Image: http://www.halloweenforum.com/members/terra-albums-tutorial-chained-werewolf-pneumatic-picture148540-werewolf-haunt.jpg Have finally...
Have finally discovered the best use of pneumatic props - as a distraction! Yes, it is counter-intuitive to spend all that time and money making a pneumatic prop just to use as a distraction but today's ToTs are more sophisticated. They look for all the signs of a pneumatic prop so use that to your advantage. All you need here is a ToT taking a second or two hesitation deciding if that pneumatic prop is a real actor. They are set-up to be scared silly with the live actor hiding in the same scene.

This werewolf in the tutorial was the pneumatic distraction for a black light ghillie suit scare that was described in the previous tutorial found here: http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/...-tutorial.html


Please watch the video tutorial for a great overview of how the werewolf was created:






Materials Needed:
Chained rig (custom made by DC Props): http://dcprops.com/
Flow controls: http://www.frightprops.com/pneumatic...0742-0504.html
Speed control: http://www.frightprops.com/pneumatic...0740-0426.html
Spider joints: http://www.spiderhillpropworks.com/s...&product_id=49
Mounting bases: http://www.spiderhillpropworks.com/s...&product_id=50
1" PVC pipe
Self-tapping screws
Zip ties
Duct tape
Chicken wire
Batting
2x4 peices
Wig head
Fake eyes
Thick wire
Costume: http://www.zagonestudios.com/





Test Rig Performance (picture 1): Even custom-made rigs may not perform as you were thinking right out of the box. You may have to adjust a myriad of things from the amount of psi needed for the prop all the way to which starting position you want it.

The werewolf's basic design is what is used for a hanging man kicker prop. But, instead of the legs kicking - the arms are convulsing. Out of the box the starting position of the prop was contracted - like the victim was pulling their arms in and therefore raising the body. But, the prop need to look like, in it's resting state, that it was passed out and when the ToTs come in - it wakens and strains against it's chains. So, the air going into double-acting cylinder had to be reversed so when the solenoid was unpowered the air was naturally flowing into the bottom of the air cylinders. When the solenoid was powered - the air was put into the top of the cylinder - then the arms contracted.

Adjust Movement (picture 2): With mechanical devices - you make one change and it will effect another. Throw gravity in and you've got a puzzler. Here was the new problem: when the power was off to the solenoid - the werewolf dropped back down to it's resting state like a 2 ton truck - BAM! Way too violent. To fix - the air going into the bottom of the cylinders had to be adjusted so the air was added more slowly to keep the prop from slamming down so fast. You use flow control valves for that. A flow control valve will allow you to turn a little dial to adjust the airflow down to a mere trickle if needed. Here the flow control was dialed down as low as possible. It was better but still needed some adjustments...

Continue to Tweak (picture 3): The battle between gravity and the weight of the rigging was massive so you have one more trick up your sleeve. You can also turn down the amount of escaping air from the top of the cylinders to assist in controlling the drop of the prop. You can use a speed control valve which is similar to a flow control valve but this is used right at a solenoid's ports or a cylinders. The combo of flow controls and speed controls help you greatly in controlling your pneumatic rig so you get that realistic movement.






Dress Torso: LIGHTWEIGHT is the key here. The more weight you add to your rigging - the more psi you will need and you don't want that if you can help it. Dress your prop to be realistic but use chicken wire to create form to the chest and also a 'cage' to protect your cylinders. If you need additional bulking you can use batting you get at a fabric store. It's the same stuff you use to to add fluff to blankets. Use needle and thread to stitch together.







Add Legs (picture 1): 1" PVC pipe is good for legs and so are Spider Joints for the knees and ankles. The Spider Joints allow a free movement just like real joint. Attach the top of the legs to the rig by drilling a hole in the PVC and then zip-tying them to the rig. Overlap the joint with duct tape to make the connection more secure but still a bit flexible.

Attach a wire spring to the back of each knee so it doesn't hyper extend - looks funny when it does that... heh.

Mounting Bases were used to attach the legs to a piece of 2x4. That way you have a 'foot' that the costume feet can be put on.

Bulk up (picture 2): As you did with the arms - bulk up the legs.






Special Touches: Use a foam wig head spiked onto the neck of the rig and a costume mask for a head. It'll need eyes though so get some fake eyes - poke some wire into the back of them and poke into the holes where the eyes would be in the mask.




Well, there you have it. All this work for a distraction scare. But, it's soooo worth it. ]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/126081-chained-werewolf.html corrugated cardboard ribs http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/125810-corrugated-cardboard-ribs.html Sat, 23 Mar 2013 01:22:35 GMT after reading all the ways you could make ribs i came across some corrugated cardboard so i said why not lets try it so here it is, the only thing i... after reading all the ways you could make ribs i came across some corrugated cardboard so i said why not lets try it so here it is, the only thing i didnt do was to reinforce the ribs which made the ribs collapse when i applied the paper mache but it eded kind of a decadent look which i kinda dig maybe next time i reinforce with wire or ducto tape or just do the decadent way
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]]> Tutorials and Step-By-Step Esteban Cruz Schifferli http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/125810-corrugated-cardboard-ribs.html