<![CDATA[Halloween Forum - Blogs - Terra's Lair by Terra]]> http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/ Halloween Discussion Forum, Haunts and Home Haunt Community. en Fri, 10 Feb 2012 20:44:52 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.halloweenforum.com/images/afterdark/misc/rss.jpg <![CDATA[Halloween Forum - Blogs - Terra's Lair by Terra]]> http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/ Painting Faux Wood Grain: Tutorial http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/1112-painting-faux-wood-grain-tutorial.html Fri, 27 Jan 2012 15:07:38 GMT Ever look at the wood-graining tool in the paint section and wonder how it worked? Image:... Ever look at the wood-graining tool in the paint section and wonder how it worked?



Yep, me too. Big surprise it was very easy to use and gives brilliant results:


These were ordinary styrofoam coolers cut in half and given the faux wood-graining treatment. This is a quick tutorial to show how it's done.



First, please watch the video which is a great way to see the process in action:





Materials Needed:
Paint glaze: http://www.behr.com/dsm-ext/v/index....CENTER;view=17
Medium wood tone latex paint
(Optional) flat black latex paint

Tools Needed:
Item to be faux painted
Wood-graining tool: http://www.homedepot.com/Paint-Brush...atalogId=10053
Coarse 1 or 2" brush
Two jars to mix glaze in
Measuring cups
(Optional) thin brush







Paint Base Color: Paint your object a medium wood tone. Wood comes in all types and ages. It helps if you have an example of what wood you are trying to replicate. A piece of very old driftwood was used for these caskets. Overall tone was an extremely dull, lifeless brown. Use a brighter yellow tone if you wanted a fresher look to your wood. Let your prop dry after painting the base color.

Note: This prop was primed with Glidden Gripper prior to painting the wood color. The primer helped to seal up the cut side of the styrofoam (contain those little balls) and smooth up the texture a bit.









Make Glaze: Mix 1 part of your base color with 4 parts of the paint glaze. Then add enough flat black paint to darken the shade so it will be one or two tones darker than the base color.

Paint Striations: Paint an even coat of the glaze onto your prop. Immediately use a coarse brush (or the same brush) and drag it through the paint vertically so you are partially scraping off some of the glaze leaving striations behind. Let dry.









Wood Graining: Now the fun step! Make another glaze but darken it a lot further. Paint an even coat over the prop and use the wood-graining tool to make the wood-graining. Start at the top corner and slowly drag the tool down through the glaze at the same time slowly rocking the tool. Each version of your rocking creates a different wood grain pattern. Occasionally rock it ever so slightly and that will create more straight grains and not show a wood knot. Let dry.








Draw Planks (Optional): Paint lines to separate the wood into planks if you desire. Dip a thin brush into flat black paint and paint a line in between the wood grain patterns.









This technique is versatile. Nearly anything with fairly flat surface can be made to look like wood. Pictured above was a cardboard box. You can also change up the wood tones for different looks. This used a black glaze.









How the caskets looked in the graveyard.




That's it! Don't you love projects this simple? ]]> Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/1112-painting-faux-wood-grain-tutorial.html Faux Steel Haunt Panels: Tutorial http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/1098-faux-steel-haunt-panels-tutorial.html Fri, 06 Jan 2012 18:10:46 GMT Problem: Your garage haunt has an opening to the outdoors. Two rather BIG openings. You thought tarps would do it but alas, they look awful. You go... Problem: Your garage haunt has an opening to the outdoors. Two rather BIG openings. You thought tarps would do it but alas, they look awful. You go to Transworld and gawk at the gorgeous vacuform panels. They are at least $100 a piece, have minimum orders and cost a fortune to ship. What to do... what to do? Why... get the old standby - pink styrofoam, of course.


You'll be transforming pink foamboard into scary industrial steel panels to disguise the happy girly color.



Here's a video tutorial which is a great way to get an overall feel for what this build will be like. Please watch:





Let's get started...

Materials Needed: (for one panel)
Little over one 3/4" thick pink or blue foamboard panel
Three 8' furring strips
Twelve 4" x 1 1/2" pieces of plywood
Four 2 1/2" coarse drywall screws
Twenty-four 1 5/8" coarse drywall screws
Foamboard glue
Super 77 glue
Twenty 3/8" tile spacers: http://www.lowes.com/pd_87754-34587-...tavo&facetInfo
Quart of exterior gray Glidden Gripper paint (exterior)
Silver latex paint (had used Ralph Lauren)
Raw sienna acrylic paint
Rust colored monster mud
Light rust colored monster mud
Flat black acrylic paint
Clear gloss acrylic varnish
Paper towels

Optional Accessories:
4 mini louvers 3" (air vents): http://www.lowes.com/pd_17208-228-50...uver&facetInfo=
1/2" thick pink or blue foamboard panel
PVC drain strainer
Plastic rafter vent: http://www.lowes.com/pd_351-75227-UP...t%2B&facetInfo=
16" x 8" air vent: http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1
16" x 4" air vent: http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1
Hooks and zip ties for mounting to house
Cement block(s)

Tools Needed:
Table saw, jig saw or band saw
Caulk gun
Drill
1/8" drill bit
Carving tool kit
Box cutter
Ruler
Paint roller
Small foam paint roller
3" brush
2" angle brush
1/2" brush
Stanley SureForm Shaver
Paint roller tray
Paper towels or sea sponge

Optional Tools Needed:
Tin snips
Air compressor with blow gun
Scraper
Piece of PVC pipe
Nylon paint stripper brush
Hardware scissors






Make a Frame: Frame out your panel using furring strips. Place two 8' pieces vertically on your workspace and cut two 45" pieces for the horizontal top and bottom. Note: The pink foam you see is not part of the panel. I used a 2" thick one as a workbench. Pre-drill each corner with an 1/8" screw bit and drill into place using 2 1/2" screws.






Place Glue: Lay down foamboard glue on the entire frame. Remove the protective plastic wrap on both sides of the 3/4" thick foam. Line up and place the good side down on the frame.







Clamp in Place: Evenly spread out the plywood pieces around the edges of the foamboard and glue. Secure with two 1 5/8" coarse drywall screws at each end of the plywood pieces.







Cut Edges (picture 1): Cut a 3/4" thick foam panel into 3 1/2" wide strips lengthwise. You will need 3 strips per panel. Use a table saw (easiest), jig saw or make a rigging for a band saw.

Glue Strips (picture 2): Lay down a strip vertically next to the furring frame, mark and cut to fit. Glue in place using Super 77 glue. Do the same for all the edges.







Attach 'Rivets': Randomly place 20 tile spacers on the edges of the panel. Push down to create an impression. Dig out where the impression is to help the tile spacers sit down nicely onto the foam. Glue into place and smooth out the caulk around the edge. They are haphazardly placed so you get the feeling some crude men/monsters built them. They don't use rulers.







Optional - Mini Louvers (picture 1): Cut the back ridge of a mini louver so it will sit down better into the foam using tin snips. Mark where you'd like it and pick out a seam so it will sit down nice and flush. Glue into place. Repeat for the other three corners.

Optional - Drain (picture 2): Cut a large square of 1/2" thick foam out. Be sure to remove the plastic wrap on the foam. Glue at the top right of the panel using Super 77 glue. Dig out a spot in the center for the drain and glue in using foamboard glue. Put the glue heavy around the edge of the drain and smooth in. It will look like metal welding once it's painted.

Optional - Large Steel Plates (picture 3): Cut two very large squares of 1/2" thick foam out (remove the plastic wrap) and glue one above another onto the panel using the Super 77 glue. Cut the rafter vent so you get two good-looking grids. Place them beside each other underneath the foam squares. Glue into place using the same Super 77 glue.

Optional - Air vents (picture 4): Glue the large 8" tall vent near the top and the 4" tall vent underneath. Put the glue heavy around the edges and smooth in to again give you a welded look.






Paint Panels: Roll paint onto the panels on both sides and use the 2" angle brush for areas the roller can't reach. Had used Glidden Gripper primer paint as an experiment and loved it. It's coverage was phenomenal. You may want to consider using this or an exterior latex gray paint. Drylok could also be used giving your panels a more gritty look.






Paint Silver: Paint the panels with the silver paint using an up and down drybrush technique but use a lot more paint so you see obvious up and down strokes. Should give you the impression of brushed metal.







Add Rust: Raw sienna is a great color to add a rust look to your panels. You'll be using a drybrush stroke again here but you can use more random strokes on the wide edges so they will show more rust coloring. The plan here is to make the wide edges look like iron and is a different metal then the sheet metal the panel is made of. Use the 1/2" brush for the inside edges. You still want to put some rust on the sheet metal but use light up and down strokes to keep the illusion of sheet metal.






Optional - Blow on Rust: I go back and forth on whether this was a good effect. You can judge for yourself watching the video. If you like it, here's how it was done: Scrape some rust-colored monster mud onto a scrap PVC pipe and blow it onto the surface using the blow gun attachment from your air compressor. That's it and have fun. Oh... drinking and blowing chunks of monster mud is an excellent past time. I would know.







Optional - Texture on Rust (picture 1): Use the nylon paint stripper brush in alternate directions to give a diamond plate look to a panel.

Sponge on Rust (picture 2): Use a sea sponge or wadded-up paper towels and dabble on the rust-colored monster mud. Change up to a lighter colored monster mud to help give definition and depth to the rust.







Gross Slime (picture 1): Place a large amount of green monster mud in places where slime would ooze out. Start at the top and use the assistance of gravity to give you a realistic look. You'll probably have to help it along with your brush.

Mud Splashes (picture 2): Apply brown monster mud using a small foam paint roller. Concentrate on the bottom of the panels where mud would be splashed up from passing trucks, marching infantry, and/or hordes of zombies.

Bird Droppings (picture 3): Drop white monster mud at the top of a few panels as nesting birds would do.







Black Dry-brushing: Drybrush flat black paint over the entire panel using cross-strokes on the edges and up and down strokes in the center. This is a magic step and adds the final convincing look of metal. It makes it look old and adds great depth.







Rust Stains (picture 1): Water down the raw sienna paint and push onto spots of the panels where years of rain would have rusted and stained the steel. Concentrate on the corners of the air vents and rivets. Let it dry for a bit and then brush it back down to smear it up some. You could also use even more watered-down raw sienna paint in sections on the panel to dull and rust it down. Do the same process using black paint in either the same area or new areas. Let dry.

Gloss Paint (picture 2): Paint gloss over any slime or any spots on the panels to make it look still wet. Dip your brush into the gloss again and fling it onto other areas for a yucky splattered look.







Install on House: Place your first panel on the house. Pre-drill and attach a hook to the top furring strip frame of your panel. Place another hook on the frame of your house. Zip tie in place. Do the same for the other corner of the panel. Place another panel next to the first one and put another hook into the furring strip. You can use the same hook on the house to zip tie the second panel in place. Repeat for all the panels.

Walk inside the garage and at the bottom of the panels place more hooks on the small pieces of plywood so you can zip tie the panels to each other to help add strength and join them up. Go back outside and place a cement block at the bottom to keep them from swaying out too much from wind. Unlike what's pictured though, place the cement block on the edge where an exit is. Kids were so scared they were plowing through the exit so that will help keep the panels in place.

Well, you are done!! Thanks for checking out this new tutorial. ]]> Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/1098-faux-steel-haunt-panels-tutorial.html Doc Holliday Tombstone: Tutorial http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/1093-doc-holliday-tombstone-tutorial.html Thu, 22 Dec 2011 23:23:20 GMT Tried a couple of new things with this western-themed tombstone and also discovered a cool new trick: exterior up-lighting! This solves the problem... Tried a couple of new things with this western-themed tombstone and also discovered a cool new trick: exterior up-lighting! This solves the problem of running separate lighting to your tombstone. New also is the use of an embedded portrait. Many thanks go to Big Nick for his advice on how to make these waterproof. The stone's dimensions are 33 3/8" tall, 29 1/2" wide and 12" deep. This is a medium to large stone.






Please watch this video for to see how your tombstone build will be like:








Quick note: A 'Following Eyes' portrait is a devilishly cool optical trick. The eyes are cut out of the portrait, spacers are put behind the portrait near the eye sockets and the eyes are glued back on. The effect is that the eyes are now slightly recessed back into the portrait so they appear to follow you.


Materials Needed:
1 1/2" pink or blue foam (over half of a sheet)
29 1/2" x 12" plywood
12' red LED rope lighting
Printer paper
Tape
Latex Drylok - gray or tinted gray
Latex caulk
Silicone caulk
Foamboard glue
Plastic wrap
Acetone
Wood filler
Spooky Eyes Portrait: Make your own or go here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Haunted-Spoo...item5ad41029fe
8 x 10 picture frame
8 x 10 non-reflective glass (optional)
Household twine
Sheet moss
6-7 spent rifle or pistol casings
Hanger wire
1/2" PVC pipe (28" total)
Paper towels
Monster mud
Opaque plastic: http://www.dritz.com/brands/showcase...?ITEM_NUM=3115
Dark gray exterior latex paint - flat
White exterior latex paint - flat
Red acrylic paint
Black acrylic paint - flat
Raw sienna acrylic paint
Dark green acrylic paint
Glue sticks
Two 24" rebar rods

Tools Needed:
Jig saw
Mask
Eye protection
Sharpie
Overhead marker
Ruler
Photoshop-type program loaded on computer
Rasterbator program loaded on computer
Adobe Reader program loaded on computer
Computer printer
Ruler
Ballpoint pen
Blue painter's tape
Dremel with multi-purpose cutting bit attachment
Fiberglass-reinforced cutting attachment for Dremel
Multi-Max Dremel with wood cutter attachment
PVC cutter
1/4" & 1/2" drill bits
Drill
Paint brushes
Paint scraper
eXacto knife
Caulk gun
Hot glue gun
Needle nose pliers
Wire cutters
Misc. sculptor's tools (usually comes in a kit): http://www.dickblick.com/products/lo...ll-clay-tools/
Stanley SureForm Shaver
Stanley SureForm replacement blade bits
Misc. sized brushes including a 3" and 2" angle brush
Scissors
Plastic cup
Non-reactive plastic container
Painting tarp
Latex gloves
Q-Tips
Ground stakes
Tying twine (polypropylene)
Wood planks for leveling (optional)





Waterproof Picture Frame: Remove the glass from the picture frame. Place a bead of silicone caulk all around the interior edge. Insert the non-reflective glass. Place the spooky eyes portrait in the frame and place another bead of silicone around the edges. Shut the backing and allow to dry overnight. Turn the frame over and place a bead of latex caulk around the edge of the glass by the edge of the frame. Let dry over night.





Design Tombstone Face & Epitaph (picture 1): Design the tombstone face in a Photoshop-type program. Use text boxes to create and adjust the sizes of the epitaph. What's great about using Photoshop is you can move the layers around and change shapes easily to make your tombstone just as you want. The picture dimensions in Photoshop is 29 1/3" tall and 21" wide. If you'd like the full-size .jpg made here - PM me with your email address and I'll send the file. Note: In the next step, after printing, the image size printed out to be 28 1/2" x 20 1/2". Close enough...

Rasterbator (not pictured): Use the Rasterbator program to make a .pdf file so you can print it out on your printer. The program can be found here: http://homokaasu.org/rasterbator/ Once the program is open, upload your .jpg image. Change the setting for Standard Paper Size to US Letter. Next, change the setting Define Output Size to 2.5 pages wide. Set Rasterbator Options to a Dot Size of 1mm. Then hit Rasterize. It will make your .jpg into a printable .pdf file. When printing in Adobe Reader, choose Page Scaling: Fit to Paper at the options window that comes up. If you choose horizontal paper alignment, also make sure Auto-Rotate and Center is selected. Now print out and tape back together.

Cut Foam (picture 2 & 3): First off...ALWAYS WEAR A MASK WHEN CUTTING/SHAPING FOAM! Lay out the Rasterized printout moving it up 4 1/2" from the edge of your foam to allow room for the bases of the tombstone (three stacked 1 1/2" pieces = 4 1/2"). Cut it out with a jig saw. Flip the cut piece over and trace out. Cut out. Measure out two bases that are 27 1/2" x 10" and cut those out. In the center of those bases cut out space for the tombstone to slip through (20 1/2" x 3"). Measure out the top base to be 24 1/2" x 7". Cut that out and in the center cut out the tombstone space: 20 1/2" x 3".





Mock-up: Put all of the pieces together to decide how you'd like them on the stone.





Trace out Design:Use painter's tape to attach the design to the stone. Trace out a section with a ball point pen, remove one side of the tape and lift the paper. Retrace the impression left with the pen again to make a clearer line. You will have to do this in sections because the impression left by the pen starts to fill back in after a while and becomes hard to see. Remove the paper when all finished.






Dremel out Pattern: Use the Dremel with the multi-purpose cutting attachment to cut out the depth needed to lay the picture frame in. Do this just as you do for dremeling out channels for PVC. Cut out a bunch of lines vertically and horizontally that are small enough that you can chip the foam out easily. Do not chip out yet. First, Dremel out the epitaph. For very small or detailed fonts, go shallower. If not, the centers of 'e' , 'o' and 'a' would flake off. Next, take off the cutting attachment tool off of the Dremel and cut all the way through for the bullet holes. Finally, chip out the area for the frame.






Channel out Rope Lighting (picture 1): Place the LED rope lighting on the stone so a LED light will shine through a bullet hole starting near the end of the rope lighting. Mark around the rope lighting and channel out picking away at the channel until the lighting sits down into the foam so it is flush. Use one of the looped tools from your sculpting kit to do this. Continue to repeat this process until all the bullet holes have a light shining through. Direct the rope lighting to exit out of the bottom of the stone.

Channel Rope Light Exit (picture 2): Place the back of the stone on top of the front of the stone. Mark a channel tall enough for the light to angle out of the back when the stone would be standing upright. Chip that foam out.

Channel out Base (picture 3): Insert the bottom base onto the stone and mark where the lighting needs to exit out of it. Mark and channel out the space.






Dremel out PVC Channels: Cut two lengths of 14" PVC pipe. Place them both on one opened side of a tombstone face so they are equally distant but not too close the the edge. Keep them as vertical as possible. Move them down 3/8" to allow them to protrude into the plywood base you will be using for the tombstone. Trace the PVC pipes with a marker. Cut the area out using the multi-purpose cutting attachment for the Dremel just halfway deep (just under 1/2"). You will be doing the same thing on the other side so the pipes will be in the center of the stone. Place the PVC pipe into the hollowed channel and apply some paint to the top. Grab the other tombstone face, flip over and center over the matching one and press down. This will leave paint markings where you can easily trace out the channels for the other side. Cut that side out also.







Fit Portrait (picture 1): Insert picture into the recessed area and shape the foam so you get a good snug and level fit. Remove the portrait for the next step.

Insert Wire Holders (picture 2): Insert two (approx 7") wires into each corner of the recessed area for the frame so they punch right through to the other side but leave enough wire on the front to be able to be bent over and clamped onto the frame. Bend the wire back and into the foam on the inside of the stone so they will hold in place. Back on the front side fold the wires flat for now. Do not install the portrait yet.







Glue Tombstone Face: Glue sides, rope lighting and PVC together using foamboard adhesive. Weight the top while curing.






Mark Plywood (picture 1): Note - These pictures are from another tombstone build. Put the tombstone face back into the foam bases. Center it on the plywood so there is even space in the front and back. Trace a line around the stone with a marker. Remove the tombstone and put on it's side. Apply some paint where the PVC is. Lift up the stone and center it over where those lines are and press down. It will leave a paint impression showing you where holes need to be cut out of the plywood.

Cut Plywood (picture 2): Drill out a pilot hole your jig saw can fit into to cut the circle out. It's hard to drill out a 1/2" hole first so start by using a 1/4" drill bit then switch to the 1/2" drill bit. While you are making these holes, also put two in the far diagonal corners. These holes are later used to tie off your stone to ground stakes. This helps add more wind protection and helps it defend against burglars when out in your graveyard. Use the jig saw to cut out the larger holes for the rebar/PVC hole.






Glue base: Glue the bases and tombstone face to the plywood one by one starting from the bottom. Use the same foamboard glue to 'caulk' any open seams (except for the transition seam from top to middle base) and where rope lighting exits out of the stone. Weight down and allow to dry overnight.





Shape Stone and Make Cracks: Use the Stanley SureForm Shaver to shape the stone and bases. Pay attention to the bases by shaving away the corners until they meet up and have a nice curve to them. Soften the edges of the stone so they look like worn stone.

Mark out 'crack' lines on the stone. Use a pick or a tool that will allow you to cut/pick a thin 'crack' into the stone. If you like you can use a tool from the sculpting tool kit that looks like a beefy eXacto knife.






Apply Acetone: Place some acetone in a non-reactive plastic container and brush it onto the cracks and any blemishes that are already on the stone. This will open them up and amplify damage. The way it eats into the stone looks like what weather would do to stone over the decades of time. Be sure to wear a good mask and eye protection as a precaution.






Fill Seams: Fill any seams and cuts you don't want in the foam. Wear gloves and dab some filler onto a fingertip. Press into the seam and feather away using your gloved finger. It is easier to smooth the wood filler while wet. It's very hard to sand dried wood filler on foam. The sand paper tears up the foam too easily. Let dry overnight. Check the next day to see if there are any raised ridges. Use a smooth metal tool to burnish down. Had used one of the sculpting tools. Also check to see if any filler had shrunk down too much and use more to fill.






Insert Portrait: Open up the wire holders. Place a bead of foamboard glue on the edges of the recessed area. Place some more glue in the inside area. Insert the portrait and press in. Bend the wire holders down over the frame with needle nose pliers and clip to trim. Place a bead of foamboard glue around the perimeter of the frame being careful that it's all sealed up. Let dry.






Barbed Wire: Make barbed wire by tying a short piece of twine onto one of the wire holders. Tie a second piece of twine right over the first. Grab both and cut them so they are the same size. Repeat for all of the other wire holders.







Monster Mud Casings: Dip the rifle casings into monster mud and place on the stone. Use a large brush to press the casings down and smooth away the mud. Have a scraper nearby to help clean the brush of excess mm. Keep doing this until the mm makes the casings have a nice transition to the stone. Dip the brush into some water and carefully and gently wash away some of the casing face so you can see that they were shiny, smooth casings. Also use the brush dipped in water to help smooth away the edges of the monster mud. Let dry overnight.






Cover up Portrait (picture 1): This step will protect the portrait from the next painting steps. Trace a piece of paper over the visible part of the portrait. Cut out. Place on another piece of paper. and trace again. Draw an interior line about an 1/8" from the edge of that new piece. Cut that out. That second piece of paper will be slightly smaller than the visible part of the portrait. Place the smaller paper on a sheet of glass in the center. Tape it over with blue tape. Put the first piece of paper over the tape and trace out. Cut the blue tape with an eXacto knife and remove from the glass.

Place Cover (picture 2): Center the tape assembly over the visible part of the portrait and press on. Also, stuff paper towels and some plastic wrap into the bullet holes to protect the LED lighting from the next painting steps.

Wrap Rope Lighting (picture 3): Coil up the rope lighting and place in a plastic bag. Seal the opening with blue tape.






Caulk and Drylok Bottom Base (not pictured): Turn the stone on it's side and caulk the opening where the PVC pipe meets the foam and plywood so only the interior of the pipe is open. Allow to dry overnight. Paint a layer of Drylok on the bottom of the base and allow that to dry overnight. Next day, do a second coat of Drylok and let dry overnight again.

Coat with Drylok (picture 1): Turn the stone right-side up again. Coat entire stone in Drylok. This step takes longer than you think though. The epitaph gives you some painstaking work. For tiny fonts you will need to press the Drylok in and then scoop the extra away using a tiny brush. It will take repetitive passes. For large fonts it will also take many passes to scoop out the extra Drylok. The font will fill in and disappear because Drylok is so thick if you don't do this step. Also have another stubby brush to help push in the Drylok to be sure any rough areas and pin holes gets coated. To help pass the time - pour a drink first.

Second Coat (picture 2): Paint a second coat of Drylok.






Painting Crevices and Epitaph (not pictured): Using a small brush and dark gray exterior paint, paint the inside of the epitaph. Use a larger brush to paint the crevices but also feather out to the edges. This will help to add depth to those cracks and crevices. No need to allow full drying for the the next step. As long as it's partially dry in spots you can move to the tea-staining step.

Tea-staining: This is a very messy step so put some painting tarps on your workbench. Dip a 2" brush into the dark gray exterior paint and mix into a 1/2 filled glass of water. You are making paint that is like tea. This will let you stain the stone so it looks like it's been out in the dirty air for centuries. Start at the top and roughly drip it down the tombstone and help brush it down in places. Do it over and over again until you like the look. You are trying to make it look like this stone has been in the weather forever. You can take breaks here and there to allow the previous tea-stain to dry a bit. If you do this you will see more definitive lines. If you don't take breaks then the lines will be muddier looking. It's all your preference. For this stone I took very short breaks so you get a bit of both. Muddying and definitive lines. Sop up any excess paint with paper towels. Remove the plastic wrap and paper towels from the bullet holes. Check to see if any tea-staining paint touched the lighting. If so, wipe clean with Q-Tips. Use small items under the the base to prop it up and allow air to flow underneath so it can dry. Dry overnight.






Dry-brushing: A miracle step. Get a dry 3-inch brush and dip it in white exterior flat paint. First brush it dry on a paper towel. Lightly brush the entire tombstone. This will paint only the raised edges of the tombstone and you will be amazed at the transformation. Instantly your tombstone will look like real stone.






Lichen & Moss Color Accents: Raw Sienna is the perfect orangy color to add a rust-colored lichen look. Dip the 2" brush into the paint and brush off excess onto a paper towel. Streak the paint down in some areas of the tombstone. Prepare your brush the same way using the dark green paint. Pick a few places that a spot of moss would look good. Don't streak it down though. Just a quick, short, downward brush stroke.

White Lichen and Bird Droppings: Place some white exterior paint on your pallet. Get a crumpled up rag or paper towel and dip into the paint and dry off a bit on another paper towel. Dab the tombstone a couple of times in the same spot while turning the rag until you get the look you want. Dip a small brush into the white paint on the pallet and brush on some bird droppings.






Black Detail Lines: Paint a very thin line in the center of any cracks on the stone. Use flat black paint for this. Extend the line past the real cracks to make a faux crack on the edges. This adds realism. If the shade of black isn't dark enough it won't be convincing so you may need to go over your line twice.

Fix Dark Areas: Sometimes the tea-staining step will wash away some of the dark crevice paint details. Go back over any areas that needs additional shading with a brush.






Make a Ridge & Paint (Picture 1): Carve a shallow outer ridge on the bullet holes using an eXacto knife. Continue to carve out the ridge using a tool from your sculptor's kit to help flatten that ridge out. This will create a 'shelf' for the opaque plastic to be set into without falling into the center of the stone. Paint with the color of the light. Let dry.

Cut out Plastic (Picture 2): Put a tiny piece of blue painter's tape on a sheet of heavy duty template plastic. The tape will indicate to you what the top of the circle will be. This tip will save you a bit of frustration down the road here. Place over a bullet hole and trace out using an overhead marker. Cut out, test to fit and adjust using scissors. Remove from hole and wipe off the marker residue off the edges. Place off to the side and repeat the process for the other bullet holes.






Silicone in Place (Picture 1): Place a thin bead of silicone on the 'shelf' and push the plastic in. Remove painter's tape. Let dry.

Caulk, Smooth and Paint (Picture 2): Place a final barrier of caulk over the edges and finger smooth to blend in. If you smudged some of the caulk onto the plastic, remove it with a wet Q-Tip.







Apply Moss: Apply some moss to the stone using a hot glue gun.






Drylok & Drybrush Visible Glue: Cover up any visible glue seams with some Drylok. Let dry and drybrush with white to help blend it back into the stone.






Yippee! You are done.





Cut Rebar (not pictured): Cutting rebar is easier than you may think if you have a fiberglass cutting wheel for your Dremel. Cut all around the perimeter of where you need it cut about a 1/4 of the way through. Center the cut area over a corner of your workbench and bend the rebar. It will break in half.

Display in Graveyard: Lay the tombstone on it's side where you want it in your graveyard. Line up the two rebar stakes where the holes are in the center of the tombstone. Pound the rebar 10" in the ground. Lift up the tombstone and slide over the rebar. This will help keep your tombstone upright on windy days. If your yard is sloped, use a plank or two of wood to shim up the bottom so it's level. Lace some string through the holes in the far corners of the tombstone and tie off to ground stakes. In a few days the grass will camouflage the string and it becomes nearly impossible to see. The ground stakes add additional wind resistance and some theft deterrent.



Before leaving, this stone was made for a trade with fellow HF member Andretti. Always wanted a top-end carved pumpkin. Was floored at what he presented me:



WowZer and thanks Andretti! ]]> Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/1093-doc-holliday-tombstone-tutorial.html <![CDATA[Blackbeard's Tombstone: Tutorial]]> http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/1078-blackbeards-tombstone-tutorial.html Fri, 25 Nov 2011 00:25:35 GMT JustWhisper was my Secret Reapee and she had a wonderful 'like' - pirates! Always made a tombstone for my SR's gift and was thrilled to have the challenge of making a pirate tombstone. This is a tutorial of how to make your own. Note: This is a small stone design because it had to be shipped to JustWhisper. You may want to scale this larger for your graveyard. The stone's dimensions are 28" tall, 17" wide and 13" deep.






A great way to dive into the tutorial is to watch the video:

Sorry about the commercial in the video - it's a mess (long story) with YouTube. Grrr!


Materials Needed:
1 1/2" pink or blue foam (about a third of a sheet)
17" x 13" plywood
Printer paper
Tape
Latex Drylok - gray or tinted gray
Foamboard glue
Acetone
Wood filler
Blackbeard's sword (Sword of Triton): http://www.buycostumes.com/Pirates-o...uctDetail.aspx
Gold coins: http://www.buycostumes.com/Plastic-G...uctDetail.aspx
Fake seaweed (used Weeping Willow greenery): http://shop.hobbylobby.com/store/ite...?ItemId=153304
Hanger wire
1/2" PVC pipe (24" total)
DAS clay
Paper towels
Monster mud
Dark gray exterior latex paint - flat
White exterior latex paint - flat
Red acrylic paint
Black acrylic paint - flat
Raw sienna acrylic paint
Dark green acrylic paint
Glue sticks
Two 22" rebar rods

Tools Needed:
Jig saw
Mask
Eye protection
Sharpie
Ruler
Photoshop-type program loaded on computer
Rasterbator program loaded on computer
Adobe Reader program loaded on computer
Computer printer
Ruler
Ballpoint pen
Blue painter's tape
Dremel with Multi-purpose cutting bit attachment
Multi-Max dremel with wood cutter attachment
PVC cutter
Sanding pads
1/4" & 1/2" drill bits
Drill
Paint brushes
Paint scraper
eXacto knife
Tray for working clay
Caulk gun
Hot glue gun
Needle nose pliers
Wire cutters
Misc. sculptor's tools (usually comes in a kit): http://www.dickblick.com/products/lo...ll-clay-tools/
Stanley SureForm Shaver
Stanley SureForm replacement blade bits
Misc. sized brushes including a 3" and 2" angle brush
Plastic cup
Non-reactive plastic container
Painting tarp
Latex gloves
Q-Tips
Tin Snips
Ground stakes
String
Wood planks for leveling (optional)






Design Tombstone Face & Epitaph (picture 1): Design the tombstone face in a Photoshop-type program. The design uses an image of an opened scroll as background and another image of a map pasted over it. Use text boxes to create and adjust the sizes of the epitaph. What's great about using Photoshop is you can move the layers around and change shapes easily to make your tombstone just as you want. The picture dimensions in Photoshop is 24" tall and 15" wide. If you'd like the full-size .jpg made here - PM me with your email address and I'll send the file. Note: In the next step, after printing, the image size printed out to be 23 1/4" x 14 1/2". Close enough...

Rasterbator (not pictured): Rasterbator (stop snickering!) is a free software program that makes huge rasterized images from any image. You can then print it out on regular printer paper and tape back together. So make sure the program is loaded onto your computer. You can get it here: http://homokaasu.org/rasterbator/
Once the program is open, upload your .jpg image. Change the setting for Standard Paper Size to US Letter. Next, change the setting Define Output Size to 1.5 pages wide. Set Rasterbator Options to a Dot Size of 1mm. Then hit Rasterize. It will make your .jpg into a printable .pdf file. When printing in Adobe Reader, choose Page Scaling: Fit to Paper at the options window that comes up. If you choose horizontal paper alignment, also make sure Auto-Rotate and Center is selected. Now print out and tape back together.

Cut Foam (picture 2 & 3): First off...ALWAYS WEAR A MASK WHEN CUTTING/SHAPING FOAM! The foam dust floats through the air and you will certainly suck it into your lungs. Unless you want to know what it's like to be a coal miner for a few days, don't skip this step! (Not that I learned the hard way...) Lay out the Rasterized printout moving it up 3" from the edge of your foam to allow room for the bases of the tombstone (two stacked 1 1/2" pieces=3"). Cut it out with a jig saw. Flip the cut piece over and trace out. Cut out.

Measure out two bases that are 17" x 11" and cut those out. In the center of those bases cut out space for the tombstone to slip through (14 1/2" x 3").






Mock-up: Put all of the pieces together to decide how you'd like them on the stone.





Mark Boundries (not pictured): Mark off the top and bottom boundries of the scroll while the paper is still on the stone. That way you won't carve those sections away.

Shape 'Map' (picture 1): Use the Stanley SureForm Shaver and bits of the shaver to gouge and shape the face of the stone so it curves like an open scroll map. Be sure that you don't carve too far into the stone. There must be room left for the interior PVC channels. Do the front side only and put back into the base for the next step.

Shape other Side (picture 2): Draw a line for what needs to be carved away on the other side using the carved side as a reference. Remove from the base and carve the other side.







Sand Surface: Very lightly sand the surface to get it to look more like smooth map parchment.









Dremel out PVC Channels: Cut two lengths of 12" PVC pipe. Place them both on one opened side of a tombstone face so they are equally distant but not too close the the edge. Keep them as vertical as possible. Move them down 3/8" to allow them to protrude into the plywood base you will be using for the tombstone. Trace the PVC pipes with a marker. Cut the area out using the multi-purpose cutting attachment for the Dremel just halfway deep. You will be doing the same thing on the other side so the pipes will be in the center of the stone. Place the PVC pipe into the hollowed channel and apply some paint to the top. Grab the other tombstone face, flip over and center over the matching one and press down. This will leave paint markings where you can easily trace out the channels for the other side. Cut that side out also.










Trace out Design (picture 1): Use painter's tape to attach the design to the stone. Trace out a section with a ball point pen, remove one side of the tape and lift the paper. Retrace the impression left with the pen again to make a clearer line. You will have to do this in sections because the impression left by the pen starts to fill back in after a while and becomes hard to see. Remove the paper when all finished.

Fill in (picture 2): Fill in any complicated designs with a marker so you won't lose your place while Dremeling out.

Dremel out Pattern (not pictured): Use the Dremel with the multi-purpose cutting attachment to cut out. For very small or detailed fonts, go shallower. If not, the centers of 'e' , 'o' and 'a' would flake off.






Glue Tombstone Face: Glue sides and PVC together using foamboard adhesive. Weight the top while curing.







Mark Plywood (picture 1): Put the tombstone face back into the foam bases. Center it on the plywood so there is even space in the front and back. Trace a line around the stone with a marker. Remove the tombstone and put on it's side. Apply some paint where the PVC is. Lift up the stone and center it over where those lines are and press down. It will leave a paint impression showing you where holes need to be cut out of the plywood.

Cut Plywood (picture 2): Drill out a pilot hole your jig saw can fit into to cut the circle out. It's hard to drill out a 1/2" hole first so start by using a 1/4" drill bit then switch to the 1/2" drill bit. While you are making these holes, also put two in the far diagonal corners. These holes are later used to tie off your stone to ground stakes. This helps add more wind protection and helps it defend against burglars when out in your graveyard. Use the jig saw to cut out the larger holes for the rebar/PVC hole.







Harness for Sword: Insert the sword back into the stone and move around until it's right where you want it to be. Take a length of hanger wire and push into the seam of the stone. Bend with needle nose pliers to adjust into a good place where when the sword is permanently placed in the stone, the wire will be fairly hidden from view. Remove the sword but leave the wire in place.








Glue base: Glue the bases and tombstone face to the plywood one by one starting from the bottom. Use the same foamboard glue to 'caulk' any open seams. Weight down and allow to dry overnight.








Design Coral Base (picture 1): Cut out a circle from paper and trace out over and over again onto the base.

Chip out (picture 2): The Multi-Max Dremel was great for this. Chip out the circles.

Smooth (picture 3): Use a grinding stone attachment (part 952) for the regular Dremel to smooth away the rough edges.







Make Cracks: Mark out 'crack' lines on the stone. Use a pick or a tool that will allow you to cut/pick a thin 'crack' into the stone. I used a tool from the sculpting tool kit.








Apply Acetone: Place some acetone in a non-reactive plastic container and brush it onto the cracks and any blemishes that are already on the stone. This will open them up and amplify damage. The way it eats into the stone looks like what weather would do to stone over the decades of time. Be sure to wear a good mask and eye protection as a precaution.








Fill Seams: Fill any seams and cuts you don't want in the foam. Wear gloves and dab some filler onto a fingertip. Press into the seam and feather away using your gloved finger. It is easier to smooth the wood filler while wet. It's very hard to sand dried wood filler on foam. The sand paper tears up the foam too easily. Let dry overnight. Check the next day to see if there are any raised ridges. Use a smooth metal tool to burnish down. Had used one of the sculpting tools. Also check to see if any filler had shrunk down too much and use more to fill.







Apply Barnacles: Google some good pictures of barnacles to use a reference. Wet some DAS clay on a tray and knead to get fairly wet (loose). Place a small grape-sized glob onto the stone. In the sculpting tool set there is a tool that has wires at the end. Bend them to one side and fan out. Dip the tool in water and then press the DAS clay on the edges to make them smooth away onto the stone. It will make the glob look like a volcano. Grab the sculpting tool that looks like a needle, dip in water and use that to stab into a side of the interior of the barnacle to separate the inside from the sides. Keep stabbing until you start to get a pea-sized creature in the inside. Finally stab the center of the creature so it's halved like a clam. Repeat until you get nice groupings of barnacles being sure to change up the sizes of them. Just like in nature.









Prepare Coins (picture 1): Mock-up placement of coins so it looks like they are being absorbed by the stone. Two options here: You can cut the coins in half using a tin snip or you can cut a scar into the foam and insert them. The latter step is shown near the end of the tutorial. It's also the way I suggest. They will be much stronger inserted into the stone.

Monster Mud Coins (picture 2): Dip the coins into monster mud and place on the stone. Use a large brush to press the coins and smooth away the mud. Have a scraper nearby to help clean the brush of excess mm. Keep doing this until the mm makes the coins have a nice transition to the stone. Dip the brush into some water and carefully and gently wash away some of the coin face so you can still see the raised ridges of the design. Also use the brush dipped in water to help smooth away the edges of the monster mud. Let dry overnight.









Caulk and Drylok Bottom Base (not pictured): Turn the stone on it's side and caulk the opening where the PVC pipe meets the foam and plywood so only the interior of the pipe is open. Allow to dry overnight. Paint a layer of Drylok on the bottom of the base and allow that to dry overnight. Next day, do a second coat of Drylok and let dry overnight again.

Coat with Drylok (picture 1): Turn the stone right-side up again. Coat entire stone in Drylok. This step takes longer than you think though. The epitaph gives you some painstaking work. For tiny fonts you will need to press the Drylok in and then scoop the extra away using a tiny brush. It will take repetitive passes. For large fonts it will also take many passes to scoop out the extra Drylok. The font will fill in and disappear because Drylok is so thick if you don't do this step. To help pass the time - pour a drink first.

Second Coat (picture 2): Paint a second coat of Drylok.









Painting Crevices and Epitaph (not pictured): Using a small brush and dark gray exterior paint, paint the inside of the epitaph. Use a larger brush to paint the crevices but also feather out to the edges. This will help to add depth to those cracks and crevices. No need to allow full drying for the the next step. As long as it's partially dry in spots you can move to the tea-staining step.

Tea-staining: This is a very messy step so put some painting tarps on your workbench. Dip a 2" brush into the dark gray exterior paint and mix into a 1/2 filled glass of water. You are making paint that is like tea. This will let you stain the stone so it looks like it's been out in the dirty air for centuries. Start at the top and roughly drip it down the tombstone and help brush it down in places. Do it over and over again until you like the look. You are trying to make it look like this stone has been in the weather forever. You can take breaks here and there to allow the previous tea-stain to dry a bit. If you do this you will see more definitive lines. If you don't take breaks then the lines will be muddier looking. It's all your preference. For this stone I took very short breaks so you get a bit of both. Muddying and definitive lines.

Sop up any excess paint with paper towels. Use small items under the the base to prop it up and allow air to flow underneath so it can dry. Dry overnight.










Red Accents: Thin out red paint and wash some red color where the footsteps and treasure 'X' is.








Dry-brushing: A miracle step. Get a dry 3-inch brush and dip it in white exterior flat paint. First brush it dry on a paper towel. Lightly brush the entire tombstone. This will paint only the raised edges of the tombstone and you will be amazed at the transformation. Instantly your tombstone will look like real stone.









Attach Sword: Put some foamboard glue into the opening for the sword and glue the sword in. Use the foamboard glue to also 'caulk' the edges of it. Q-Tips are good here to wipe away excess glue. Bend the wire in place to anchor the sword. Cut away any excess wire.









Attach Gold Coins: Use an eXacto knife to cut a slot for the coins to slide into. Take a sculptor's pick to pick out some foam to make room. Add some foamboard glue and glue the coin in place. For a coins that's just resting on the outside of the stone - just glue the back of it to the stone. You can use the foamboard glue for that.









Lichen & Moss Color Accents: Raw Sienna is the perfect orangy color to add a rust-colored lichen look. Dip the 2" brush into the paint and brush off excess onto a paper towel. Streak the paint down in some areas of the tombstone. Prepare your brush the same way using the dark green paint. Pick a few places that a spot of moss would look good. Don't streak it down though. Just a quick, short, downward brush stroke.

White Lichen and Bird Droppings: Place some white exterior paint on your pallet. Get a crumpled up rag or paper towel and dip into the paint and dry off a bit on another paper towel. Dab the tombstone a couple of times in the same spot while turning the rag until you get the look you want. Dip a small brush into the white paint on the pallet and brush on some bird droppings.









Drylok & Drybrush Visible Glue: Cover up any visible glue seams with some Drylok. Let dry and then quickly drybrush with white to help blend it back into the stone.









Black Detail Lines: Paint a very thin line in the center of any cracks on the stone. Use flat black paint for this. Extend the line past the real cracks to make a faux crack on the edges. This adds realism. If the shade of black isn't dark enough it won't be convincing so you may need to go over your line twice. Paint a line across the center and outside perimeter of the creature inside the barnacles.

Fix Dark Areas: Sometimes the tea-staining step will wash away some of the dark crevice paint details. Go back over any areas that needs additional shading with a brush.









Apply Seaweed: Apply some seaweed to the stone using a hot glue gun.












Whew! You are done! Step back and admire your new creation :)









Display in Graveyard: Lay the tombstone on it's side where you want it in your graveyard. Line up the two rebar stakes where the holes are in the center of the tombstone. Pound the rebar 10" in the ground. Lift up the tombstone and slide over the rebar. This will help keep your tombstone upright on windy days. If your yard is sloped, use a plank or two of wood to shim up the bottom so it's level.

Lace some string though the holes in the far corners of the tombstone and tie off to ground stakes. In a few days the grass will camouflage the string and becomes nearly impossible to see. The ground stakes add additional wind resistence and some theft deterrent.




Thanks for checking out the tutorial :) ]]> Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/1078-blackbeards-tombstone-tutorial.html Build Outdoor Monster Props: Tutorial http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/913-build-outdoor-monster-props-tutorial.html Mon, 08 Aug 2011 13:50:18 GMT Ever wanted to build an outdoor monster prop but got stuck on how to make it look like a monster, be portable... or make it weather proof? Yeah, well... Ever wanted to build an outdoor monster prop but got stuck on how to make it look like a monster, be portable... or make it weather proof? Yeah, well me too :p But, really... really wanted to make a Demon Horse for the graveyard this year. It's amazing how desperation makes ideas pop into your head.

How about the foam tombstones we all make. They are tough, lightweight and handle the weather great. Why can't you follow the same procedures? Turns out, you can somewhat. This tutorial will show how it was done.

A condensed video version of this tutorial. It'll be a good primer:





Let's get started:






Materials Needed:
Plywood
2", 1 1/2", 1", 1/2" thick foam sheets (variety helps here)
1" and 1/2" PVC pipe
1" wood screws
1 5/8" wood screws
Rope light (LED)
Boatloads of PVC connectors in all kinds of configurations (see below)
Paperboard
Duct tape (of course - what project doesn't use this?)
Hanger wire (thick gauge so it'll hold shape)
Hardware cloth
Zip ties
Gorilla glue
Foamboard glue
Instant glue
Paintable white caulk
Silicone caulk
Elmer's wood filler
Latex Drylok paint
Cheesecloth
Latex gloves
Toothpicks
Popsicle sticks
Paper towels
Template plastic
Heavy Duty Template plastic
Plastic wrap
Bendable plastic mirror
Exterior flat latex paint
Paint (misc. colors)
Clear gloss paint

Tools Needed:
Jig Saw
Sharpie
PVC Cutter
Clamps
1/8 drill bit
Rope
Yardstick
12' ruler
Heat gun
Bending PVC jig (nails pounded into a 2x4)
Stanley SureForm Shaver
Bits of old rasp blades
Drywall cutter
Serrated steak knife
Dremel
Hobby knife
Wire cutters
Needle nose pliers
Kitchen shears or tin snips
Paint scraper
Work gloves
2" paint brush
Caulk gun
Screwdriver
Pins
Scissors
Paint Sprayer
Airbrush






Get Baseline and Inspiration Pictures: Pictures, artwork... even better: a Google Sketch-up model. Any, all or some of these will help keep the design focused and on track. Collect inspirations on what the monster will look like. Also collect measurements like the length of a leg, size of the head and girth of the chest, etc. Of course there's no website out there with measurements of monsters but there are measurements of animals. Find a good equivalent animal of the monster and base the build measurements off that.

Google Sketch-up (Picture 1): Google Sketch-up models are great because the base model can be manipulated to what's needed. Saves a lot of time. Found a rearing horse model for the Demon Horse: http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehou...3d&prevstart=0

Move and Measure (Picture 2): Here the model was moved around to get a sense of how it would look like in the groundbreaker design. Also a person was added to see the scale better. Sketch-up also offers different views including 'X-ray' which is what's seen in the picture. It's a clear view so the ruler tool can easily be used to measure any distance needed: distance between the ears, length of the neck, length of a leg and so forth. Was invaluable in building the Demon Horse.

Small Sculpture (Not Pictured): Try to have a small similar sculpture or make a small scale mock-up. It's good to use while shaping the monster because you can see and feel the shape of muscles and curves. Had a small horse sculpture that was used for the Demon Horse.















Prepare the Operating Room: A large variety of PVC connectors will help give flexibility in designing the skeletal frame for the monster. There's a couple of new connectors made by Spider Hill Prop Works: http://www.spiderhillpropworks.com/s...tegory&path=35 you should check out. The mounting base allows to easily attach the PVC to a wood platform (great start) and the Spider Joints allows to bend a joint around until just the right angle.














Plywood and 2x4 Base (Picture 1): Cut out a piece of plywood large enough to hold the beast. Span the bottom of it with 2x4's to make it stronger. Be sure to place the 2x4's under where the mounting bases will be so long screws can be used. Consider putting two more 2x4's at the far edges of the board to add stability for extra tall beasts. The horse wobbled a bit to much for my liking. The other advantage to using 2x4's is that they allow air to circulate when it's out in graveyard and not kill the grass (so quickly).

Mounting Bases (Picture 2): Line up the mounting bases and mark where the holes are.

Screw into Place (Picture 3): Pre-drill with an 1/8 drill bit and attach with 1 5/8" wood screws.















Build the Framing: Start to build the PVC structure beginning with 1" PVC once the Mounting Bases are installed. For smaller sections use the 1" to 1/2" connectors to transition to 1/2" PVC and connectors.

I won't lie, this whole process is mind boggling but stick to the model measurements and trust them. Be sure to make the skeletal structure smaller than what the monster will be. You need to be able to shape the foam as much as possible without cutting/grating into the PVC pipe. If not, frustration will occur followed by grumbling and drinking.














Tricky Bends: A heat gun is great for doing angles not achieved with the Spider Joints. Heat the pipe until soft and bend into shape. Make a jig to help: pound some large nails sticking out of a section of 2x4. Use these as braces to help bend, hold and cool the PVC.













Set into Place: Cement or screw into place most of the connectors once the structure is completed. This will strengthen it into one solid unit. Use self-tapping screws or pre-drill and use 1" wood screws like was done here. Do not screw into place sections that must be removable so you can fit the beast up basement stairs (heheh) like the head and wings on this Demon Horse.

















Install Rope Lighting: Snake rope lighting where light is needed and zip tie in place. Be sure to take a reference picture to remind where the light rope is after being skinned with foam. Try using LED lighting. Here incandescent lighting was used and it's a bit concerning with the heat it generates being encased in foam.
















First Layer of Foam: Skin the PVC framing with pink or blue foam. Use Gorilla Glue to be sure that the foam will stick onto the PVC.
















Build up Layers: Continue to add more layers of foam paying attention to the shaping of the monster. The more thinking here will need less work later when shaping it back down. Use foam glue to attach these layers together. I'd like to say I've found a great foam glue but can't. Had used Loctite Foamboard glue but if there is no air, it never dries. What happens is that while shaping, you run into wet glue which gunks up the shaping rasp. It's still workable but aggravating. There must be better glues out there so please comment if you know any.

Use rope to hold in place while it dries.
















Thin Areas: Use a center layer of foam cut out for the PVC and sandwich it together on each side with more foam for thinner sections like legs and arms.


















Pattern Paper (Picture 1): It can be difficult to estimate the size and shape of the next layer of foam. Take paperboard (this was a paperboard insert from picture frame), hold it up to the monster and trace out the shape needed.

Cut Out (Picture 2): Cut the pattern out to use as a template for the foam. When done, duct tape the paper back together and it can be reused.
















Starting to take shape.

















Muscle Layers: The last layer of foam will be where rippling muscles should be.
















Draw Carving Lines (Picture 1): Draw out lines on the monster to identify where carving is to begin.

Carve Away (Picture 2): Use the full cache of carving tools to begin to carve away those areas. This is a slow process but helps when you turn up the Rob Zombie tunes at full ear-splitting max...:p Oh. I mean it helps when you focus on one area of the monster at a time. Work on a right leg, then a left leg so they are symmetrical. Work on a right neck, then a left neck. Work on the left head and then the right head. So on and so on. DRINK!

Note about those carving tools: You'll be switching between different tools constantly. Here's some favorites:

Stanley SureForm Shaver: The go-to. It fits perfectly in the hand and allows quick shaping of the foam. Angle it on the side and it's great for carving out lines and shaping away to make smooth rounded edges.

Pieces of the Shaver: Eventually the shaver will need a fresh rasp blade. Don't throw the old one away. Instead, break in half and it's perfect for holding at the end of fingertips. Now you can get into tight corners and really dig in. Quick removal of larger sections of the foam can be stripped/flaked off if you use the flat side. It kind of pops off.

Drywall Saw: Great for cutting off very large sections

Serrated Steak Knife: Used for quick short cuts of pieces of foam that will be glued into place like teeth, pieces of mane.
















Open Mouth: Some monsters look scarier with their teeth showing. Cut where the mouth would be and glue back in place open using embedded wires. Embedded popsicle sticks near the front helps to temporarily hold the jaw in place while the glue dries. The sticks can be cut off later with a Dremel.

















Smaller Foam Pieces (Picture 1): Add the smaller detail pieces like teeth, tongues, tentacles and hair once the basic structure of the monster is carved down. First shape a piece of foam to fit onto the part of the monster it will be glued onto. Then draw out, cut and shape the piece on the workbench.

Hanger Wire Support (Picture 2): Cut pieces of hanger wire and stick into the area where the monster and new piece will meet.

Glue in (Picture 3): Add glue and push the piece into place.

















Carving and shaping done for body of the monster.

















Hardware Cloth: The monster may need wings or something similar that must be thin but strong. Enter hardware cloth. An evil... err...I mean awesome material that can be bent (with a lot swearing and blood loss) into the shape you desire. Really, it's great stuff but is like wrestling an alligator to get into shape. A PVC frame, zip ties and needle nose pliers will help. Oh, and work gloves! The cut ends of hardware cloth are like needles and will poke at every chance they can get.

Cut the general shape needed using kitchen shears or tin snips. Roll one edge around the PVC pipe and zip tie in place. Start shaping the hardware cloth. Needle nose pliers are great to help pinch the cloth into a bend. The edges of hardware cloth bends inward but not outward. For outward bends, cut notches in the cloth to help open it up. There will be a gaps left but will be covered up in the later Cheeseclothing step. When able, attach the cloth to the opposite PVC frame.
















Adding More Shape: Two things to help add shape:

Caulk: Can be used (built up in layers) to make a spine or ridge.
Foam Snow: Great stuff to fill in gaps. Put on some foamboard glue, press the snow on and let dry. May have to be done several times.















Fill Seams: Apply wood filler with a paint scraper to fill in seams and smooth with a gloved hand.

















Cheeseclothing: Cheesecloth is Terra's cheat for fiberglassing :p It unifies and strengthens the surface of your monster without the hassle of fiberglassing.

Don some latex gloves and dip a large square of cheesecloth into Drylok and squeeze out excess. Open up the cloth and press onto the monster starting at the top. Use some extra Drylok at the top to help hold in place. Press smooth being careful to pull out the edges so a seam wouldn't be left behind. Paint on a nice layer of Drylok and move onto the next piece. Continue to do this until the monster is covered.

















Tendons/Veins (Picture 1): Tendons and veins are a tiny accent but communicates rippling monster-like muscles. Stage thin long strips of cheesecloth on the monster where tendons/veins would be. Google muscle men pictures (fun for me) or horse pictures to help get a sense of where tendons/veins usually are.

Dip the strips into Drylok, squeeze out excess and press into place. Brush on some additional Drylok to help smooth the transition.

Holes (Picture 2): Use a Dremel to cut out any accent holes in the hardware cloth item (like wings) to add more of a monster vibe to them.

















Cheesecloth Accents: Bits of cheesecloth dipped in the Drylok is good for hair-like items, torn or hanging skin. Stick in some wire for support if there isn't gravity to help.















Check for Holes: Do a final check for any pin holes prior to painting the base color. A good technique is to turn on the rope light and turn off the room lights. Check for any place where light is leaking out. Seal up with wood filler.

















Paint Base Color: Use a paint sprayer to paint the base color if the monster is large and/or intricate like this one. It allows to get into the nooks and crannies easier than with a brush. Use flat exterior latex paint for this step.
















Large Lit Areas: Cap large lit areas with flexible opaque sheets of plastic. This template plastic is great for that and can be found in the quilting section at Jo-Ann's: http://www.dritz.com/brands/showcase...?ITEM_NUM=3133

Attach the plastic to the foam using caulk. Pin in place until dry. Stuff in wadded plastic wrap like pictured above if the light needs to be diffused more.

Use Instant Glue to glue an additional piece of plastic if the end needs to be capped (like a hoof). Then finish sealing it up with silicone so it's still invisible. Make the additional piece of plastic bigger than what's needed because it can be trimmed back after drying. After all this is dry, put on another layer of caulk where the edge of the plastic meets the monster. It can be textured to make it look more like skin. Additionally, smear some more silicone on the entire surface of the plastic to make it even more thick and opaque.















Cut Light Scars: Look at your reference picture of the rope lighting placement and mark out the light scars. Cut out with a drywall saw. Remove additional foam inward at an angle until good light is showing. This is the horse's eye.

Redirect Light: Had a problem with the eye placement and where the rope light was (didn't line up). A solution could be to use a piece of bendable plastic mirror (shown above) to reflect the light: http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog/p...ODID=xprd77619















Make a Ridge & Paint (Picture 1): Carve a shallow outer ridge of the light scar using a hobby knife. This will create a 'shelf' for the opaque plastic to be set into without falling into the body of the monster. Paint with the color of the light. Let dry.

Cut out Plastic (Picture 2): Hold up a sheet of Heavy Duty Template Plastic: http://www.dritz.com/brands/showcase...?ITEM_NUM=3115 on the scar and trace out the shape. Cut out, test to fit and adjust using a hobby knife.
















Silicone in Place (Picture 1): Place a thin bead of silicone on the 'shelf' and push the plastic in. Hold in place with toothpicks embedded into the foam if the plastic won't stay bent around a curve. Let dry.

Caulk, Smooth and Paint (Picture 2): Place a final barrier of caulk over the edges and finger smooth to blend in. Let dry then paint over with the monster's base color.

















Paint Details (Picture 1): Paint with a brush some items like the tongue, horns and teeth.

Airbrush Details (Picture 1): Add muscle definition using an airbrush and thinned light colored paint. Use black for detail lines like ridges on horns. Use red to make tiny veins. A combo of red and yellow for flames. It's endless what can be done here. Let the imagination run wild (wine helps).

Glossing (Picture 2): The final step. Use clear gloss in the airbrush (or brush on) to add a wet, live look to some parts of the monster. Focus on the mouth and wings or any place that would look good shinning back.


















Whew, done. DRINK!






Thanks for reading the tutorial. Hope it was helpful :) ]]> Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/913-build-outdoor-monster-props-tutorial.html Quick Dummy for Pneumatic Rigs: Tutorial http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/893-quick-dummy-pneumatic-rigs-tutorial.html Sat, 23 Jul 2011 19:52:57 GMT You got the pneumatic rigging but no idea how to put a monster on it? Well, this may be for you.

Almost didn't post this tutorial because I really screwed up while making him :o Had to make major adjustments to the monster once he was moved into the haunt so the pictures aren't quite showing the steps in a 1,2,3 sort of order. Hope it's cobbled together good enough to be helpful.

This is based on the small lunger prop from FrightProps http://www.frightprops.com/air-elect...mech-0760.html and old costumes, PVC connectors, chicken wire and foam. All together (I think) it makes a very scary werewolf. Here's how it was done:







First, a video of it in action:




The goal in designing a dummy for a pneumatic rig is to keep the weight down. Weight is always a factor in pneumatic dummies because the more weight that the pneumatic cylinder has to lift, the more air pressure you will need. If it gets too heavy, you may exceed what the rig can lift. Okay, with that in mind, let's get started...




Your project will depend on the rig you are attaching it to so there's not a complete materials list. For the werewolf, found that the easiest spine to connect to the rig was a thick wood dowel that had holes drilled into it that corresponded with holes already on the rig. Then, it was bolted together.

Once you get your spine material figured out here's what else is needed:

Materials:
Spine (metal, PVC, hardwood dowel or stick)
4-way PVC connector
PVC pipe
2 PVC elbows (30 or 45 degree - depends on the pose you want)
Costume pieces including mask, gloves and feet
Foam wig head
Pool noodle
Chicken wire
Duct tape
PVC cement or screws
2" thick soft foam sections (memory foam is really cool)
Poly batting
18 gauge wire
Scrap hard foam
Two fake eyeballs
Two 1 foot sections of 2x4







The Spine: (Picture 1): Use a hardwood dowel (or metal) as thick as you can get away with. A softer wood dowel will start to bend after a while. For extra strength you could slip a PVC pipe over the wood dowel. It's best to use a metal spine if you have the tools to fabricate it. It's very strong and can take the punishment of pneumatic pounding.

The measurement from the ground to the 4-way for this dummy was 43". Again, this will depend on your rig. When the werewolf is lunging, he is well over 6' tall.

4-way Connector (Picture 2): Here you see the connection of the spine with the shoulders using a 4-way PVC connector. You can also see the PVC elbows that will be used to attach the arms. This is not the length of the shoulders for the werewolf. The picture is of Terra's shoulder (another prop). Because the werewolf has his arms in a lunging position, his arm and shoulder ran parallel so no need for a shoulder joint. The measurement from the 4-way to the elbows was 20". Once you like your positioning, cement (or screw) it together. Slip on some of the pool noodle to bulk it up.

Elbows, Neck and Bulking Up (Picture 3): Once you get your spine/shoulder connection worked out, attach the PVC elbows and decide how long you want the forearms. In this picture they are around 19".

Note: Later during the build, realized that the forearms needed to be shortened to fit into the small space in the haunt (to 12"). You couldn't notice that he had stubby forearms because of the ToT's perspective. Additional changes were that the pool noodle was cut away where the shoulder joint would have been and the PVC was heated with a heat gun to soften for bending. The pipe was pulled back a little more which made the arms look even more behind the body and in a menacing monster attack. If it's not clear yet, imagine pulling your arms back like you are lunging. See how your arms are now behind your torso? So, this is another option to help you have the prop take up as little floor space as possible (and not slap a ToT in the face....heheh).

For the neck, make a 10" piece of PVC or wood dowel and fit it into the top-opening of the 4-way. There should be enough room to slip the wig head on and leave a bit of neck.

Slide on pool noodles onto the arm PVC pipes. Later in this tutorial you will see that even more bulking up was needed to have it be a convincing hulking beast. So, decide at this point if you need more bulking because it's easier to do here rather than tear apart your finished monster... :rolleyes:

Remove the lower arms for now.

Chicken Wire Chest (Picture 4): Wrap chicken wire around the spine/shoulders. Bend and form to make a torso. Twist the cut wires together to hold it in place.

Note: Later in this tutorial (see Adding Bulging Muscles - below) are the instructions that need to be followed here and not later (like I had done). But, couldn't jam the step in here because the pictures weren't making sense. Hope that's clear as mud. Sorry about that :(











Costuming: You will find it easier to have the entire costume cut top to bottom in the back and just tied together. With the length of the arms, it's really hard to put the costume on and off the dummy for adjustments.

Raise up the rig to it's full height and place a bucket underneath to hold that position. Put the costume on the dummy. Seems like many costumes have no distressing or aging so help it along. Paint, tear and shred areas until you like the look. You may have to add more material to the bottom front and sides (like an apron) so when the rig is raised, it's still covered but the back is clear so as to not interfere with the mechanics of the rig. Don't want to give it a wedgie...

Make the final decision on the position of the shoulders and the arms. Cement or screw into place. The pounding that pneumatics create will lower them gradually if they are not cemented together.










Foam Palm Form and Wire Fingers (Picture 1): Cut the shape of a palm out of scrap pink foam. Cut lengths of wire for fingers.

Fingers (Picture 2): Push little chunks of foam onto the wires to fill out the fingers. Then push the fingers into the palm. Use duct tape to hold it all together. If your costume glove has long claws, have some wire sticking out to help keep them upright.

Put Glove On and Drill Hole (Picture 3): Partially put the glove on the hand. Using a drill bit the same width as the PVC pipe, drill out a hole for it.

Attach Hand (Picture 4): Slide the hand onto the arm and duct tape in place.










Bulk up Head (Picture 1): Put the wig head on and, using batting and tape, make the head big enough to hold the mask you are using securely. This mask has a built in cowl that covers the neck. If yours does not have this, get some excess material that matches the costume and wrap it around the neck like a scarf.

Place Eyeballs (Picture 2): Jam some wire into the back of an eyeball and test out the position of where you want the eye to be. For this mask, the eyes looked better bugging out so an eye socket wasn't carved. For your prop, that may be desirable.

Darken Eye Sockets (Picture 3): Remove the eyes and darken the eye socket area with a Sharpie. Put eyes back in place.










Feet (Picture 1): Unless you are making a ghost, feet help to give the monster a definitive and scary height. Slip in foot-long pieces of 2x4's into costume feet. Simply place the feet under the skirt where they would normally be when the rig is raised.

Size Him Up (Picture 2): Ahh, he's starting to look like a monster....but a wimpy one. He still needs to be bulked up even more!!!










Note: Word to the wise...if you want him bulked up or his arms shortened, do that before cementing the PVC pipe ;) heheh..... You know, unless you like to swear a lot. The picture was taken after realizing that his arms were sticking out too far and he was wimpy. It shows the forearm shortening and shoulder bending that was done at the last minute.

Add Bulging Muscles: This is where the soft foam comes in. Memory foam works great because when you tape it down and put a costume over it, it pushes back against the costume... just like muscles. So, wire in chest panels and tape down some foam on his forearm and upper arms.











GRRR!!!


This picture was taken before the arm shortening but, surprisingly after the change, you couldn't tell unless you looked at him from the side (because of perspective). So, that's a tip if you can't have a prop take up a lot of floor space, remember that perspective is your friend :p




Hope this was helpful and thanks for looking at my tutorial. ]]> Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/893-quick-dummy-pneumatic-rigs-tutorial.html Painting Faux Metal: Tutorial http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/892-painting-faux-metal-tutorial.html Mon, 04 Jul 2011 19:31:39 GMT Here's a way to paint anything to make it look like metal. Even better, then how to make it look like grimy old metal.





If you need to disguise the original texture, you'll also be using some monster mud.

Materials needed:
Optional Texture Disguise: Monster Mud tinted black or rust (or both)
Silver latex paint (I used Ralph Lauren)
Black paint
Raw sienna paint (rust color)
Optional Rivets: White and black airbrush paint and stencil with hole in it

Equipment Needed:
3" brush
1 1/2" brush
Optional: air brush
Optional: paint roller






Monster Mud: This was a 'tank' made out of plywood. It needed to have the texture of the surface changed so it wouldn't look like it was just painted wood. Enter monster mud. Take a paint roller, dip it into your black mm bucket and roll it onto the surface thick, even and vertically. Let dry.










You can see in this picture the texture that was left behind from rolling it on with a paint roller. It is starting to look like grimy old metal.












Silver Paint: Using the 3" paint brush, apply silver paint in downward strokes. Cover the black well but leave some of the black showing beneath. Helps give greater depth. Let dry.












Rust it Up: Dip your 1 1/2" brush into the raw sienna paint and randomly jab in some accents. Focus on places where you think rust would have formed over time (joints, seams) and pull the paint down a little. Finally, make a wash of the same raw sienna paint and starting at the top, dab it on and pull it down.

Note: In the picture you can see that there seems to be two different rust colors. It's actually one but the darker color is straight raw sienna and the lighter ones were thinned a bit with water and/or white paint. Just try to switch a bit of the tones so you get a more organic look.












Black Accents: Dip your 1 1/2" brush into the black paint and jab in additional accents. Then, using the 3" brush, dry brush the black in random sections to help make it look like soot or just a real dirty spot is there. Finally, make a wash of the black paint and again starting at the top dab it on and pull it down.

Second Rust and Black Wash: Come back with the raw sienna wash to get a layer of the rust over some of the black. To really make it look old and yucky finish with another wash of black. This second wash is kind of optional. Just keep working on your project until it's as grimy as you want it. (I can go overboard).











Painting Rivets: If you have an airbrush, go to this link and follow the excellent tutorial at the 6:00 time stamp:





If you don't have an airbrush you can try the technique with a regular brush. It should still look pretty good. Basically the airbrush technique is:

1. Paint a fuzzy white bottom half-circle.
2. Paint a fuzzy black top half-circle.
3. Place stencil with a hole in it in the center of that and paint white.
4. With stencil still in place, paint bottom edge a fuzzy black.
5. With stencil still in place, paint top edge a fuzzy white.











This was a wood crate that I didn't bother doing the monster mud step but think it still looks pretty good.












The fog machine was done a little different. It was already black and metal so it was just dry brushed with the silver paint. Rust tinted monster mud was randomly hit in spots with a foam roller. That gave it a nice rusty-looking depth. Finished off with a little black dry brushing, quick raw sienna wash and rivets. Looks steam-punkish huh?












This was a green rotating Christmas tree stand. The texture really needed to be changed. Rust tinted mm was heavily rolled onto it, dry brushed silver and added the black accents.


So, you can do different orders of paint layers and different tinted colored mm and get different results. It's quite fun actually to see what you end up with :)

Thanks for checking out this tutorial. ]]> Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/892-painting-faux-metal-tutorial.html Realistic Eyeballs: Tutorial http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/839-realistic-eyeballs-tutorial.html Sat, 18 Jun 2011 15:02:08 GMT Eyes, eyes, eyes. Why do so many prop builders focus on making perfect eyes? Well, it's the first thing ToTs look at to determine if it's a fake monster or a live actor. You could at least fool them for a few seconds if the eyes look real. For most scares... that's all the time you need ;)





Okay, here goes the tut... get your wine out.

Supplies Needed:
Clear Eyeballs from the Skeleton Store
10" 20 gauge wire
Pupils template
Clear gloss acrylic paint
White acrylic paint
Red acrylic paint
Yellow acrylic paint


Tools Needed:
Wire cutter
Spare foam
Butter knife
Scissors
Thin, long-haired brush
Large brush
Paint mixing jars





Get the Eyes: The Skeleton Store sells these nifty clear eyeballs. Here's a picture of them inside a skull and a link to the website where you can get them. They are $4 a pair: http://www.skeletonstore.com/Detail.bok?no=37










Remove Cornea and Clean: The cornea pops out of the eye with careful prying. You'll see that fake blue is just painted on. Carefully scratch off the paint using a butter knife trying not to scratch the clear plastic underneath.










Pick your Pupil: This is a template of many different kinds and colors of irises. They were gleaned from Haunter's Hangout Terrific Easy Eyes, taxidermy sites and just plucked from all over the web. Thanks to HermanSecret and Larry you can now download full-size file:
http://home.comcast.net/~uk_teejay/g...oween_eyes.jpg
or
http://www.halloweenforum.com/specia...loweenEyes.jpg











Insert Wire: Cut the wire in half so you have two pieces. Jam each piece into the back of the eye. This allows you stand up the eye into scrap foam to make painting easier. Also, its a stem that can be used to insert the eyes into your prop.


Note: Here you can see the cornea sitting over one of the pupils on the paper. The eye on the left is the original pupil that came with the eye. You will also notice that the eye is already painted white. That will be explained in the next step.











Paint Whites: Mix white acrylic paint with the clear gloss and a little water to keep some translucency. Do about three coats. You want the paint to add subsequent translucent coats of white to keep that 'jelly' look to the eye.











Paint Red Veins: Paint in some blood red color for the veins using the long, thin brush.












Paint Yellow: There is a yellow cast to an eye so mix a very translucent blend of yellow and white and paint it from the back to the front but not going all the way to the pupil.

Gloss the Eye: Use the clear gloss paint to give your eyeball a wet look.











Insert Pupils: Cut the pupils out of the printed sheet of paper. For this model's eye, it needed to have a dark ring around the outside edge (looked cool by contrasting the light eye). If you want to do that, take a Sharpie and outline the outside edge of the pupils. Place the cut-out pupils into the hole in the eye and pop the cornea back in place.

You may find that the cornea won't quite reset back in place fully. To be sure it stays in place, paint the rim of the cornea with clear gloss paint. When dry, it will hold it in place. Be careful with using glue as some glues (especially super glue) will haze out the eye.












For giggles, here's a few of the pupils in the eyeballs.





The scale of the eyeball is slightly bigger than a real eye.






I can see!
















In case you wanted to see the entire build of the model using these eyes, check out her video:




Here she is in action:




Thanks for looking at my tutorial. Now, go have some wine! ]]> Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/839-realistic-eyeballs-tutorial.html Integrated Haunt Control using DMX/VSA: Tutorial http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/834-integrated-haunt-control-using-dmx-vsa-tutorial.html Fri, 29 Apr 2011 13:14:21 GMT Castle of Terra has been using a computer to serve as central command for the control over the pneumatic props in it. Over the years there have been... Castle of Terra has been using a computer to serve as central command for the control over the pneumatic props in it. Over the years there have been many questions and answers on how this is done. Thought I'd put up a general tutorial on how to use a computer, software and DMX signaling to run your haunt. This is no way comprehensive and you should always read the manual that comes with the software and hardware you'll buy. They should be the go-to... not this tutorial. A nerd, I am not :p

Before we wade into this tutorial... I have a confession to make. Lately, been starting to waver in my belief that a whole integrated haunt controller is the way to go. Let me explain:

There are two ways to automate your haunt: Integrated and Stand Alone. An integrated haunt controller is usually a computer with a program called VSA (Visual Show Automation) that's loaded onto it. You also need a partner software program (and a bit of hardware) called DMXorcist. You use DMX signaling to send the commands of each prop's show to the props themselves. Stand Alone is when each prop has it's own controller. All the components and commands are literally stand alone. As with everything in life there are pros and cons to each way to command your props:

Pros:
Integrated: Less equipment needed and all the props are controlled from one computer. You can use a remote, triggers and timers.

Stand-Alone: The props are independent of one central command so if there is a failure at one of the controllers, just one prop is down... not the whole show. There is less wiring needed also.

We've run Integrated now for four seasons. While haven't had a catastrophic failure... the worry of one does wear you down a bit. Starting to think of having one or two props 'offline' (stand alone). That way, if that day of failure comes, we'll still have a few props that would work. Plus, be gaining experience in learning how to program and set-up stand alone props. This is probably going to be the controller used for those props: http://www.frightprops.com/controlle...tors-7740.html



Okay, that's the set-up...now let's get into the basic tutorial about having an integrated haunt controller. First, let's do a flyover of what we will be doing here to get a lay of the land. This video shows how to do one prop using just VSA and DMX signaling to help keep this simple. DMXorcist isn't being used here yet:







Equipment


First, you need a computer...
Not just any computer, mind you. A powerful desktop with a sound card with it's own processor is even better. The new DMXorcist version that is now out promises to be less processor dependent. Haven't tried the latest version but previous ones put quite a load on your computer's processor and added some instability. It will help a lot if you also have a sound card that uses it's own processor and doesn't use the computer's. Stay away from laptops because they traditionally have slower processors. Got mine to work for three seasons but was so glad we were able to move up to a desktop last year.

VSA Software: This is a very popular program that you use to write a prop's show by coordinating the sound, lights and devices (pneumatics, motors). It's full name is Visual Show Automation and is made by Brookshire $60: http://www.brookshiresoftware.com/vsa_overview.htm

DMXorcist:
In order to run several props simultaneously, you'll need another program that will collect all your various VSA prop programs. This will allow you to control them easier. With it, you can use a remote, triggers (motion, mat, etc.) and timers. It's called DMXorcist and has a hardware component that comes with it that allows you to plug those trigger wires in and receive remote commands.

On top of the regular DMX program, the software is bundled with a 7.1 sound file program (with instructions) that allows you to make sound files that utilize 2.1, 5.1... even 7.1 surround sound files. Why would that be necessary? Here's the scenario: You have four props that each have unique sounds triggered by it's VSA program. But, computers only have one stream of sound out. If your computer has a 7.1 sound card, you can transmit 7.1 sound. But, that still doesn't help you here...yet. Well, with the 7.1 sound program that come with DMXorcist, you can take a sound file and make the sound come out of the center speaker only and the rest of the sound channels would be silent. When you play the VSA routine, the sound only comes out of the center speaker (which you have next to the prop). Now, take the sound file from the other prop and use the sound software to make its sound come out of the front-left channel. Have the front-left speaker next to that prop and when the VSA program is triggered, that sound will play at the front left speaker. You repeat this process until all of your sound files are programmed. Bear in mind, you will have speaker wires all over your haunt but the wiring is cheap and small. In our haunt, almost all wiring - including air lines - are routed on the ceiling. With the lights off, can't tell a thing.

Recently Phoenix, the creator of DMXorcist, has branched off to form his own company. $120: http://www.freewebstore.org/Phoenix-...4_2740969.aspx

Enttec Open DMX USB Interface: This takes the signals from your computer and translates it into DMX commands. This is what starts your DMX daisy chain. $60: http://www.enttec.com/index.php?main...ow=description

DMX Relay/Dimmer: Never sure what the dimmer functions do but I always get a relay box that also has dimmer functions just in case I figure out that I might need it, heh. But, I only use the relay functions. Here is a picture of the box:


Think of a DMX relay/dimmer as an interface between items that are normally plugged into the wall and your VSA program using DMX signals. If you plug in a prop (that is usually plugged into a wall) into the DMX relay/dimmer you now can command that prop through a DMX signal and therefore your VSA program. Cool, huh?!

The plugs that you see are two for each channel - 4 channels. So, instead of plugging your prop into the wall, you plug it into a channel on the DMX relay/dimmer. In VSA, you had already given that channel a DMX address. When VSA says that it wants the prop to turn on, it will. When you want it to turn off, it will. All using the relay.

Bonus ability: If you plugged in a normal light (not DMX) into one of the channels on the DMX relay/dimmer, you can also tell it to turn on and turn off just as you would a solenoid. But, the beauty of DMX is that you can also tell it to dim or brighten as well. So, again, with a DMX relay/dimmer you can control anything that normally gets plugged into the wall with DMX commands. By the way, the DMX relay/dimmers all have a DMX IN and DMX OUT so that is how your DMX daisy chain continues down the line.

Note: We've been referring to DMX relay/dimmers but don't confuse them with DMX controllers. Those are two different things. The relay has some controlling features but we don't use those (they are turned off) in the applications we are talking about. The VSA program does the controlling. The DMX relay/dimmer is just used as an interface. DMX controllers could take the place of VSA but I don't think it has the features that we need. DJs mostly use these functions for their shows. Look at the picture of the DMX/relay. Notice where it shows two MODES that it has to operate. See where it says DMX and underneath it says Chase? You decide which MODE you want to use on the dimmer/relay. Either stand-alone chase (like a controller) or DMX (like an interface). The chase feature is very limited though. It does things like chase lights and other DJ things with lights (16 programs). But, that is not useful for what we need it for, controlling props or creating a unique haunt light show. That's why VSA is so useful.

DMX Cables:
You'll be connecting your DMX daisy chain using various lengths of 3-pin DMX cables. Do not use microphone cables. They look the same (and some will tell you they are the same) but the wiring is sub par for DMX signaling.

DMX 5-pin to 3-pin Adapter: The Enttec has a 5-pin out, yet most of your DMX equipment uses 3-pin connections. No idea why, probably just to confuse people. You know computer engineers...they are evil...EVIL I TELL YOU! So, you need an adapter.

DMX Terminator: This is put at the end of your daisy chain to absorb the DMX signals so they don't reflect back into the daisy chain. Reflected signals are like echoes and your DMX device might get two signals instead of one - therefore confusing it. So, it helps keep the signal clean.

Powered USB Hub: The DMXorcist hardware box is a bit thirsty for power along with the Enttec box. So the USB port you use must be adequately powered. This could done from a combination of a separate powered USB hub and/or the adequately powered USB ports from your computer. Some computer's USB ports are powerful enough but not all of them. Unfortunately, there isn't a way to tell. If you are running into performance issues, try switching where you've plugged in the USB connection. For example, I learned that the USB ports on the front of the desktop were more powered than two of the four USB ports in the back of the computer. Again, must be those evil computer engineers.




Programming



Enough of that preamble! Let's get to programming a VSA prop routine...



This is what a program looks like when it's all programmed and ready to go. This is the Trash Can Trauma (TCT) that was in the haunt in 2010. Please bear in mind that this tutorial won't go over all the ins and outs of VSA because you can look at a demo version of it and they have an extensive, helpful manual. Yippee!: http://www.brookshiresoftware.com/vsa_downloads.htm
We'll just focus on the information you'll need to program a VSA routine.









If you are using sound, start with loading that file first. See that the sound file is displayed as a sound wave? That's so you can see the pauses and loud hits of sound. This will help you line up your commands to match what's going on with the sound.

To load sound, select Tools>Load Audio file. A new screen will pop up. Hit 'add' and a browser bar will pop up so you can get your file (see above). Once you retrieve the file, hit okay.








Now that the sound is loaded, you need to set up all the devices that you'll be using for this prop routine. Devices are solenoids, lights, fog machines etc. Before we can begin programming we must set up the devices so the VSA program knows what they are and how you want them to be controlled.

Select Tools/Settings and the box above will pop up. You can rename the devices, select the type of device it is (DMX Dimmer) and what port of the computer the signals will be coming from. In this case, it will be Enttec. You then decide what DMX addresses you want your devices to have. Decide what the upper and lower limits you want the commands for the device to be. Most DMX devices are 255 for upper limit and 0 for lower limit. Finally, you decide on what default you'd like for it.










Now, back to the main page. You line up your mouse to the spot you want your first command to start. Click and drag how long you want a command bar to be. Let go. Now, double click on your new bar to bring up the window you see above. This is where you tell the program exactly what you want that device to do. The picture above shows the command box for the solenoid device. For the 'Event type' make it a pulse bar so it just makes an ON/OFF command.









For lighting, use a linear bar. The change you make will be related to the length of the bar you created. It will also hold the last command given. In the shot above, the DMX LED light's dim/strobe command is being set. This DMX LED light has four DMX addresses which allows you separate commands of the dimming/strobe action, the color red, the color green and the color blue. You'll have to make a command bar for each of these functions unless you aren't using them. Hope you see now why DMX lighting is so cool. You can control them like a mad scientist!

Okay, you've made your program and when you press play...WALLAH! Your program should run. If it doesn't - always check to be sure 'Enttec' is the port in the settings window. For some reason, when you first start up VSA it tends to deselect it :rolleyes:


DMXorcist


You have the basic understanding of VSA... let's add DMXorcist. Why, do you ask? Because VSA alone will run one prop routine but not two or more. Also, you'd have to stand in front of the computer all night and hit the enter button on the computer to make the prop fire. DMXorcist will allow you to run up to 8 props, use all kinds of triggers like floor mats, use timers and yes, even a remote!

Thought it would be easier to explain how to use DMXorcist live on video. Please watch:







DMXorcist's main page








Logic functions tab page










Timers tab page




2.1, 5.1 even 7.1 Sound!


Ok, haven't shown how to make those 2.1, 5.1. 7.1 sounds yet. This may sound complicated when you first read how to it but once you've done it, you will understand how easy it actually is. Remember, detailed instructions on how to do this comes with DMXorcist. We are just doing a fly-by here.






Take the sound file for your prop and convert it into a mono track using the Windows Sound Recorder which is found in the accessories programs. Make a copy of that and turn the volume way down to nothing. Save it by renaming it a 'mask' file.









Use the 7.1 Sound Mix program that comes with DMXorcist and load the mono track into the sound file field. Click on the speaker channel you want...say left/front. Then, load the silent mask in it's field. Decide what you want to call the file that will be created in the 'Output AVI'. Hit 'Make File' and the program blends all that into a single sound file that only transmits the sound of your prop to the left/front speaker. Now, you use that new sound file as your sound file you load into the VSA program. Do this same procedure for all of your props that have sound but change the location of the sound for the different props. So, another prop would have the 'center' speaker, another would have 'rear/right' and so forth.



Other Important Info/Tips


DMX addressing with the VSA routine: For some stupid reason, with some devices, you have to change the address one down. For example, for my DMX relay, the address on it is 1 but on VSA, had to use address 0. So, if your DMX device isn't working, try lowering the address you gave it on VSA by one. Had to do the same for a fog adapter address (its address is 50 but on VSA it is 49). Chauvet lights, on the other hand, is right on the money: address 32 on the dip switch and address 32 on the VSA program. Go figure! :rolleyes:

Testing without Compressed Air: Use a small table lamp plugged into the DMX Relay instead of the actual solenoid to make programming VSA easier. Light on/light off would be the same as solenoid on/solenoid off. This makes programming much easier to test without having to deal with live airlines.

Summary of Connections: This is a basic rundown of the connections of your equipment:

Computer: Loaded with DMXorcist software. The DMXorcist software has many VSA routines loaded into that.
Out the USB port of the computer: A powered USB hub.
Out of the powered USB hub: DMXorcist box and the Enttec Open DMX.
Out of the DMXorcist Box: Any triggers (mat, motion sensor, etc.) and the receiver for the remote.
Out of the Enttec Open DMX: A 5 pin to 3 pin adapter.
Out of the 5 pin to 3 pin adapter: A DMX cable.
DMX cable goes to a DMX device (let's say it's a DMX light): Cable goes into the 'IN' plug.
'OUT' plug of the DMX light: A DMX cable ....see the daisy-chaining beginning?
DMX cable goes to the next DMX device: Cable goes into the 'IN' plug.
Repeat, repeat, repeat: Until you get every device you need controlled by all the VSA programs plugged in.
At the end of the daisy chain: A DMX terminator.

Why different Channels on DMX lights?: DMX lights are designed to be absolutely controllable. In order to get that control, they gave you three, four, seven... however many channels are needed to give you, the programmer, absolute control over the features of the light.



This is a diagram showing a simple DMX light that has four channels that you can program.








This shows the range of control you have and what values you can set them at.


Channel 1: (Shutter, strobe and dimmer settings)
0 - 1 is blackout (or no light)
2 - 127 is slow strobe to fast strobe. So, if you use 2 it would be an extremely slow strobe. Then if you use 60, it would be a medium strobe. Then, if you used 127, it would be a very fast strobe. You can use any number between 2 - 127 to get the speed of strobing you like.
128 - 255 is dimmer settings. 128 is basically off or no light. 255 is full on brightness. The numbers in between are percentages of those. So, if you used 188, it would be medium bright.
Channel 2: Red
0 - 255: 0 is no red and 255 is full red. 127 would be medium red.
Channel 3: Green, Channel 4: Blue
Is the same settings value as the red.

If you wanted just red, set channel 2 to 255 and channels 3 & 4 would be 0. If you wanted yellow, set channel 2 to 255 and channel 3 to 255 but have channel 4 at 0. If you wanted white, change channel 4 to 255. That is the beauty of RGB lights (Red, Green, Blue) you can make any color in the rainbow (including white) depending on the values you set.

Setting DMX Dip switches: The four channels we were just talking about above are also called DMX addresses. There are a total of 512 DMX addresses on a DMX daisy chain. So, in VSA, those addresses need to be assigned. You get to pick what address you want. But first, you must tell the light you want it to be DMX controlled. If not, it will work as a stand alone light and not be controlled via DMX. We don't want that here. So, set dip switch #10 to ON. That's the one dip switch that isn't used as a DMX addressing switch - it's used as a function switch. Now, we can continue with setting the DMX address of the light...



Look at the very bottom of the dip switch chart. It has what each dip switch number represents. You add those up and they give you the address you want. So, in the first example it shows how to set the dip switch to give you a DMX address of 10. You switch dip switches #2 and #4. (2 + 8 = 10). Now that you have set your light to address 10, it will take DMX addresses 10, 11, 12 & 13. Because this DMX light has four channels - it also has 4 DMX addresses.

Just to make sure let's set DMX address 24. Turn on dip switches #4 and #5 (16 + 8 = 24). So this would take DMX addresses 24, 25, 26 & 27.

You've now turned on the light to take DMX commands and also set the DMX address. You can now tell VSA, in the setting tab, what address you gave it.

One more Time...: Just as a review, let's go ahead and put what we've learned about that DMX light and it's channels into VSA again.



First, bring up the settings menu in VSA and fill in the info for your DMX light and the four channels. The starting DMX address is 10 so the light is taking up channels 10, 11, 12 and 13. Type that information in and then type in the values that this particular DMX device uses. You are putting in the + value column the maximum and in the - value column the minimum for the hardware you are using. In the default column, you decide where you want it to normally start at. You can choose it to be off for the red, green, blue and off (max dim) in the dimmer/strobe channel. You could also pick 0 or 1 for that but if you had a long event in VSA, the light would have to travel through the strobing values before it hit the dimming values and that's usually doesn't look good in the show.







The settings are put in so you can now write the events. This is a screen shot of what the events look like in VSA. You can see that the light was activated a little bit after the routine started. That's because the routine is to have the light come on a little bit after the action to better scare the ToTs. The light starts as yellow (red and green channels are on).








If we clicked on the command for the first dim/strobe event the box shows that the DMX light starts at no light (128) then goes to fast strobing over the length of the event.








Here the colors are being set. The red starts as no red (0) to brightest red (255). If the green setting box was brought up, you'd see the same setting so together the show is getting a fast strobing yellow light.

VSA will keep that last command until you make a new event. So, just keep adding new events when you want the light to do different things. At the end of the routine, make sure you have the last command telling it to turn off the light (if that's what you want). If you didn't the light would stay on even if the show was done.



Whew, that was a big tutorial! Thanks so much for taking the time to read it all. ]]> Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/834-integrated-haunt-control-using-dmx-vsa-tutorial.html Killer Tree/Hedge: Tutorial http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/833-killer-tree-hedge-tutorial.html Sun, 17 Apr 2011 19:50:49 GMT Yeah, yeah...I know. Another old tutorial. But, I have an excuse! Been working on two big projects. One was the Demon Horse that needs to wait until... Yeah, yeah...I know. Another old tutorial. But, I have an excuse! Been working on two big projects. One was the Demon Horse that needs to wait until it can be pictured in it's native habitat (graveyard). That'll be a tutorial nearer Halloween. The other project is new ChromaDepth 3D panels and those tutorials were made last year. So... you get an old tutorial again but now it's shiny and cleaned up :p


Here's how to transform the 'Haunted Hedge' prop you can buy at the store (that thing that makes a hedge shake, moan and has lighted eyes) into a real killer.

Here's the completed prop in action:



By the way, want to thank Voodoo Willy for his idea of tentacle teeth.





You will be making three killer 'flowers' for your tree or hedge.



Materials Needed:
Haunted Hedge prop (I got mine at Spirit)
3 silk greenery bunches (pick something that somewhat resembles the tree or hedge you are making into a killer)
Small bubbles bubble wrap
Glue stick
1/4 package of Model Magic
Some twist ties
Green pipe cleaners
Jute string or thin rope
Paintable white latex caulk
Acrylic paints & brush
Tree or hedge to make into a killer (fake or real)









Cut out Circles (not pictured): Cut out three sets of circles out of the bubble wrap: 12", 9", 7", 5 1/2", and 3".

Glue Edges: On the 12" and 9" circles, take a small amount of the edge, fold back and glue to hold. This will give the two outside circles a more organic and thicker appearance. Just like older leaves would naturally get.

Pop Bubbles (not pictured): Then, starting from the center of each circle, 'pop' the bubbles until you get nearer the edge. For the larger circles you can leave more of the bubbles intact and for the smaller ones pop more. Again, this helps give it an organic look by having the inner, younger 'leaves' less developed. Plus, the popped bubbles will help compact the leaves in the center when you put it all together.

Coat with Latex: Coat all the circles on one side with paintable latex (white). Let dry overnight. Flip over and coat the other side. This coating gives the bubble wrap a pliable, rubbery, more life-like appearance. Plus, it is now paintable. Let dry overnight again.










Paint: Paint the circles with a good matching water-thinned (to add translucency) paint to your silk greenery bunches. Do both sides.

Paint Second Color: Paint a second color that would help the 'flower' stand out from the rest of the tree or hedge. I liked Yellow Oxide for mine (there was little yellow streaks in the silk greenery I bought).









Make Teeth: Cut pipe cleaners and twist ties in graduating lengths to match the sizes of circles. You will be doing three sets:

3" circle: three 2" twist ties
5 1/2" circle: five 3" twist ties
6" circle: six 4" pipe cleaners
9" circle: six 5" pipe cleaners
12" circle: eight 6" pipe cleaners

Roll graduated amounts of model magic onto onto the twist ties/ pipe cleaners until they resemble tentacle-like teeth. Put a bend in it and let dry overnight. Remember, you are doing three sets of these teeth.

By the way, the reason I picked twist ties and pipe cleaners is because this allows the Model Magic to grab onto something. If it was bare wire, it would be more difficult. The twist ties are used because the pipe cleaners are too big for the smaller teeth.

Insert Teeth: On the back side of the large circle, decide where the teeth will be put on the circle. Poke two holes and pull the teeth through. Repeat for the other circles. Flip back over and bend the teeth until they look sinister....










String Together: Take a long length of jute rope and make enough knots so there is a good ball of them. Poke a hole at the center of the small circle and pull string through. Do this through the subsequent circles until you reach the last one. Turn over and knot again. Do not cut off the extra string, you will use that in a another step.

Arrange: Arrange and bend teeth as necessary to get a realistic killer 'flower.'










Open up Greenery: Open up your silk greenery and squish down if necessary to give enough room for the flower.

Insert Flower: Nestle the flower in and tie to the silk greenery using the tail end of the string used to assemble the flower.









Attach Motor: Take the 'Haunted Hedge' out of the box and lay out on your table. You will see that it comes with a vibrating motor, three lighted eyes and 12 black wires. On the motor you will see that it has three places to attach 3 of the wires. This is where you will be connecting your flowers. Attach three of the wires now to the motor.

Remove Eye Cover (not pictured): Take off the lighted eyes and remove the eye covers. The covers dim the LEDS too much. DO NOT UNHOOK EACH LIGHT FROM THE STRING! Just unhook at the main connection. I unhooked all the lights and unfortunately learned they they need to be in a specific sequence or they will not work. Anyways, set the lights and the motor off to the side for now.

String: On one flower, pick three teeth opposite each other on the largest circle to attach three of the black wires to them. Attach the wires to the end of each teeth's pipe cleaner. Then join the three ends of the black wires together. This is where you will be attaching the motor's wire to. Do the same for the other two flowers.











Insert into Tree/Hedge: Stick the three flowers into the tree/hedge. Place the motor into the center of the tree/hedge. Attach one of the motor's wire to each flower at the place where the flower's three wires were joined together previously. Make sure the motor wires are taut so you get good movement. Do the same for the other two flowers.

Position LEDs: Position the LED lights above the flowers so they cast good light on them and reconnect to the motor. Turn it on and enjoy! It's sound activated. ]]> Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/833-killer-tree-hedge-tutorial.html Transworld 2011 http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/817-transworld-2011.html Fri, 25 Mar 2011 11:35:45 GMT This was posted in a thread already but I thought I'd keep this at my blog as well...

This was a surprising year! Transworld upped their game (once again) and we met so many forum members & Hauntcast.... partied hard with fellow haunters and lived to tell about it.

As with previous Transworld reports, made a video but now it's improved... it's in full HD! (new camcorder):




Notes about Video (I'll post show prices if I have them):

Beginning: (Pale Night Productions) Just love how he pulls you right into the scare. At Time Stamp :37 - when the furnace opens - a fan blows a burning scent at you. WoW! At 1:14 - when the window breaks, not only do you get a huge breeze but there is a water sprinkler above you.

1:26 (Robert Kurtzman's Creature Corps): Best statue costume ever! Very hard rubber and part of the costume is the table. The actor slips in from behind and stands with his elbow resting on the table ledge. Effective.

1:34 (Dead House Designs): These just aren't any bugs projected onto the wall. You can program the software to tell the bugs to react to the surface they are on. So, if there is a beam on the wall, the bugs will hit it, stop and turn away. Made the illusion realistic.

2:21 (Midnight Studios FX): The standout vendor at the show. Acres of jaw-dropping realistic props and costumes. The artistry was incredible.

2:47 (Haunted Enterprises): Wanted to show everyone the simplicity to get a prop to swing like that. $900

3:30 (many vendors): This was a walk-through haunt on the show floor. What a treat! At 4:01 check out the swarms of bugs on the wall. Looked real.

4:36 (Gore Galore): They rocked this year especially with that Goat Head. If you look under the canopy you see that it's suspended from the ceiling and you can slide it forward. There are less pneumatics needed and with the actor moving the prop, it becomes much more realistic in it's movements. $3500

4:44: Fright Theatre (Boogedy's creator) and DC Design Studio (we know them as DC Props): They teamed up for a stand-out booth. This is great stuff for us home haunters.


5:12 to end (The Scare Factory): They surprised me with their focus on electrical motors. Loved them! 5:14 - That FCG is electric. If you look towards the floor, it is using a lot of counter-balancing to get the hovering (see the weights?). $2200 5:44 - That is an incredibly powerful air cannon under that coat rack. $2300 6:30 - Another electric-powered motor here. Love the slow, spooky movement. $1400 6:54 - This monster must have been over 20' tall. It just went up and up and moving everywhere. Show-stopper! $14,000 Christmas present!!!!







Onto the Pictures....



Midnight Studios FX: Just thinking of them again makes my mouth gap open. The creativity... I mean a werewolfy monster with wings??? Oh yeah, it works! Costume - $2200








Midnight Studios FX: Loved this little guy so much that he became our big purchase at the show. His eyes glow red too. $400







Onadira: This is sold as a kit, you supply the lumber and they supply the hardware. $180








NightScream Studios: This is a wall panel that they put on the ground to make a skull pile. Thought it was a great idea. $145









Little Spider Creations: This 'little' spider had to have been at least 10 feet! $2355








LHB Designs: These masks have air supplied to them and when you set it off, the hair or hat (or whatever) flails. $400









Immortal Masks: Look at the detail of the vampire one. $450










Haunt Tactics: A costume that when he was walking the show floor, you got outta the way! $1300









Hauntek: These are 10 watt LED Outdoor lights. They have a remote so you can change the colors, pulse and strobe. Thinking of getting these to uplight the Demon Horse just made. $60









GAG Studios: Great-looking gargoyle. It's outdoor rated, mists and the eyes light up. The table top comes off. $280










Froggys Fog: Seen several versions of this at the show. This one has the scents in a cat food-type can and you put it in the scent distributer and it's fan blows the scent through the room. $20. Scent cups were $20










Fright Props: Speaking of a prop throughout the show floor.... crackers. Obviously, it will be the new big prop this year. $29










Fright Props: They focused on their electric motor and all the uses for it. $250










Edge Designs and Theme Decor: Simple but effective. You hear weeping and the roses pull down slowly like they are wilting then suddenly pop back up. $650










Digital Sound & Lighting: Finally had a chance to check out a Butt-kicker. It's simply mounted on a plywood platform (with rubber bumpers to avid damaging concrete). When you are standing on it and he turns it on, you swear you are being electrocuted. All by using a butt-kicking mega subwoofer speaker. Hee!










Dark Raven Designs: Loved the look of this gothic window. $550











Dark Raven Designs: His snakes are a awesome as his spiders. Thought this pose for the snake was really good. Simple pneumatic pushes it forward and it spits (of course). $850










Dark Raven Designs: Speaking of their awesome spiders. You can now get a static version. Yep, we got one... I mean, really.... who could resist this beauty? $300










NightScream Studios: Speaking of those crackers, they were also jammed into tubes to make a wicked and scary hand-held prop.











Trick or Treat Studios: Ordered these three new masks. $30









Here's the stuff we got and took home. Couple of T-shirts, awesome claws ($5), fangs ($5), latex vampire prosthetics ($20), airbrush stencils ($30 each - chain link and broken glass), two How-to DVDs ($50 each), Bloody Mary Ice Crystals make-up ($6 each), Wolfe makeup ($8 & $12) and some gifts and samples :)










And, before we left .... WHITE CASTLES! mmmmmm..... mmmmmmm. $ priceless







There are some more pictures in my album here: http://www.halloweenforum.com/member...orld-2011.html ]]> Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/817-transworld-2011.html Animated Spider Victim: Tutorial http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/801-animated-spider-victim-tutorial.html Fri, 11 Feb 2011 14:56:30 GMT Another one of my older tutorials. Brushed off the dust and shined it up a bit. If you want to see it in action and have me explain how it works,... Another one of my older tutorials. Brushed off the dust and shined it up a bit. If you want to see it in action and have me explain how it works, please see this video:





The genesis and heart of this 5' tall spider victim is from a 'Hanging Man Zombie' prop made by Gemmy and was sold at Michael's (probably other stores too). He was puny but the mechanism was terrific. Think of the mechanism as a swinging pendulum.






And, this is what it'll look like when finished.














Materials Needed:
Blucky
Gemmy 'Hanging Man Zombie' prop
Cheesecloth
Webbing
Blanket batting
Wire or jute rope

Tools Needed:
Glue gun
Scissors
Dremel with cutting tool


Remove Bag Covering Prop: Cut the bag off the 'Hanging Man Zombie' so you can see all the mechanisms. You will see that he is originally designed to be hung from his feet. For this prop, you will hang him from his head.

Cut Blucky Skull: Cut the back of the Blucky skull so you can insert the prop. Also, cut out the eyes and the lower jaw of the Blucky skull to allow the light and motion sensor of the prop to still be active inside the Blucky skull.

Glue Skull Together: Glue the Blucky skull back together to hold it and the prop together.










Before this picture was taken, you would see that the mechanism that makes this prop work is a simple long spring that is attached to a swinging motor. Exactly like a pendulum. The key is to keep the movement as unhindered as possible.



Wire Leg Bone: Wire or rope a leg bone to the top of the spring. Have the rest of the spring inside the bone. Attach the bottom leg bone and foot.









Cut Ribcage: You will need to cut away (I used the Dremel) the breastbone, some of the lower ribs and the lower spine so you can attach the rib cage to the mechanism. Save the lower spine, you will need that later. I wired (or roped) wire going through the arm openings to the other side and back around to hold the mechanism in place.

Adjust to Free Movement: As you see in the second picture, I went a little far in cutting out Blucky's spine. Keep a section of his spine intact so the ribs don't buckle back into the mechanism. If you need to, glue in a piece of bone to keep the chest rigid. You will see red circles where I glued in the extra bone. Check to be sure that the pendulum can swing freely.

Cut to Access Battery Cover: Also be sure you've cut away enough of his spine that you can remove the battery cover.






Attach Arms: Attach his arms and wrap some of that blanket batting around them. Glue the arms to the shoulders so the arms stay in place.






Hang him up from the string on top of Blucky's head. This will make your work much easier. Now you will continue to make a 'cage' so that the mechanism can move freely. You've already done that by attaching the arms and chest but now you have to do the same for the front and back. Easily solved.

Attach Pelvis: Grab the pelvis and cut away the front half but keep the hole where the spine attaches intact. Glue back in the spine (that you had cut away from the chest) to the pelvis. Test fit the pelvis assembly to the chest (where you will be gluing it) to be sure that it won't hinder the movement. Glue into place. I red circled where I glued the pelvis assembly to the chest.

Extend Arms: For the front 'cage' I rigged the arms so they would extend out from the body using string.







You can just see a string from the wrists to the chest that is lifting the arms away from the body. This is also a great shot to show where the pelvis is glued to the chest.



Drape Cheesecloth: Now drape on some cheesecloth. Make sure that you leave extra cheesecloth at the bottom because you will still be attaching his other leg and that will make him taller.







Drape Webbing: Now drape on some webbing. After the first pass, find gunk that you can put on it to show that this poor guy has been here a bit. I used sand, some leftover moss and the general dirt that's on my basement floor. Then do another wrapping of webbing.

Attach Other Leg: Just before the last layer of webbing, attach his remaining leg to the cheesecloth where it is long enough to make your animated man life-sized. Then do your final wrap of webbing and loosely close up the bottom. I left his foot sticking out with just a little webbing covering it.

Grime-up: Throw on some more dirt and stuff. Turn him to the back and cut out an opening for the battery cover and you are done! ]]> Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/801-animated-spider-victim-tutorial.html Pallet Toe-pincher Coffin: Tutorial http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/785-pallet-toe-pincher-coffin-tutorial.html Sun, 26 Dec 2010 14:41:54 GMT Don't know if anyone has noticed, but I've been slowly transferring my photo album tutorials to the blog here. I've fixed some broken pieces (picture links), put on a fresh coat of paint (better explanations) and added a few more goodies to them (videos). This next one was my very first tutorial in the summer of '08. Yeah, I took a lot of pictures back then :o


This coffin is made to be very sturdy because it houses pneumatics for a Vampire in Box (VIB).




Here's a video of it in action:





Let's begin the tutorial....




The inspiration for this project is ScareFx's $25 Full-size toe-pincher coffin. http://blogcrypt.com/ScareFX/2397/




You will need three to four pallets to get enough wood pieces for the top and sides.

Materials Needed:
3 - 4 pallets
1 sheet of plywood
1 box of 1" drywall/wood screws (coarse thread)
1 box of 1 3/4" drywall/wood screws (coarse thread)
Three 6' long 6" wide wood fence planks
10' of 5/8" thick manila rope
Three 4" black strap hinges (gate hinges)
20' decor chain
6 nails
Rusty lock
Coat-of-arms type decoration

Tools needed:
Drill
1/8" drill bit
7/8" spade drill bit
Marker
Square
Hand saw
Reciprocating saw
Circular saw
(optional) jig saw
Tape measure
Two saw horses
Occasional helper...







Separate Pallets: Use a reciprocating saw to cut off the pallet nails to separate the boards. Why saw off the nail? Because these are evil, twisted shank nails that do not come apart easily when you try to pry them apart. Just easier to cut them off. This is a lot of work and you need a helper to hold up the pallet as you cut.












Pick Choice Pieces: Lay out the best gnarly pieces of wood to make your lid. This lid will be 6' long and 27" at the widest point.













Cut Cross Braces: You'll be making three cross braces to attach the pallet wood together at the top, center and bottom of the lid. Measure the center of the lid and subtract 4 inches to get 23 inches. Cut 23" from a fence plank to give you your first cross brace.

Cut the remaining 49" fence plank in half lengthwise using the circular saw. This will give you two 3" wide boards. Use these pieces for the remaining top and bottom cross braces being sure to give yourself a 2" gap on each side of the finished lid. You need the 2" gaps in the cross braces to give you clearance for the sides of the coffin when the lid is attached and closed.












Assemble Lid: At the top, bottom and middle of the already laid out lid pieces, slide the cross-braces you made underneath. Be sure to have that 2" clearance on all sides.












Screw Together: First, a word about pre-drilling. Do not skip this step. Pallet wood is old and it really wants to split. If you do not pre-drill your holes it will split like no ones' business. You've been warned ;)

Pre-drill holes (2 for each board) and screw together using the 1" wood screws into the cross brace. Repeat the procedure for the top and bottom being sure that 2" clearance is there.











Add Additional Reinforcement: Flip over and add another cross brace for stability. I used a skinny piece of left-over pallet wood for that.

In case you noticed.... The center cross brace in my picture isn't wider (6") than the other top and bottom cross braces. That was a mistake of mine. The wider piece is easier to screw into the two sets of wood. Also, you'll notice that I didn't give myself the 2" clearance on the left side of the middle cross-brace and at the top cross brace. Now I'll have to hand saw that off :( At least I still got the 2" clearance for the very top and bottom of the lid right :D












Cut Toe-pincher Shape: You will now mark the outline of the toe-pincher. For the bottom angle take a long board and starting 16" from the top and 3" from the edge of the bottom, mark a straight line. Repeat for the other side. For the top angle start at that same 16" mark and 3" from the edge of the top side, make a mark. Repeat for the other side.

Cut off the marked edges to form the shape of your coffin.












Finish Cut Cross-Braces: You must make sure that the cross braces gives you enough clearance for the sides when you close it. If too long, cut off with a hand saw.














Lid nearly done but not nearly scary enough...














Attach Accent Boards: Pre-drill and screw in accent boards from the pile of left-over pallet wood to give it a creepier look. They also firm up the boards if you screw in each board to the accent piece.












Finish Cut Accent Boards: Cut off edge of accent boards with saw.












Top is done!













Draw out Bottom: For the bottom of the coffin, there is no need to use pallet wood. Plywood is fine. Place top of lid on the plywood and trace out. Be sure to swing one side of the top lid to the edge of the plywood so it saves you from having to cut out one of the sides.













Here you can see the pattern made.












Cut Bottom: Cut out bottom using circular saw. Bottom and top is now complete.












Choose Wood for Sides: Decide how deep you want your coffin. To me, 12" is too shallow and 18" is too deep. I settled on 15".

Now determine which pieces of pallet wood would work for the header, footer, two sides and two angle sides. Pick evil-looking wood for best effect. The wood sitting at the foot of the coffin is long enough to make the header and footer when they are cut it in half.










Cut Cross Braces for Sides: Lay out the side wood to get ready to screw together using the plywood bottom as a working table. Make sure that you have enough wood to make the sides at least 14" (1/2" bottom plus 1/2" lid plus 14" = 15" deep coffin.)

To make the needed cross braces use the remaining fence plank from the lid construction that was cut in half (3" wide piece) and cut twelve 12" pieces. If you don't have enough wood, grab another fence plank, cut in half lengthwise and continue to cut your needed pieces.

Grab another fence plank (6") and cut off two 12" pieces.









Screw Sides Together: Using the same procedure you used to make the lid, pre-drill and screw in the side boards into the cross braces. First use the 3" wide cross brace for each set of pallet wood and then use the 6" wide cross brace to join the two sets together. Be sure to have the cross brace level with the bottom of the side. There will be a large gap left at the top. This will allow the lid to clear when closed.











Mark Length to Cut: Here's how the side looks when held up on the bottom. Mark where the side of the coffin angles away to the header. You will be cutting the excess of the side off.












Square Mark and Cut: Using a square, mark off the needed amount. Cut off with a circular saw.











Make Top Sides, Header and Footer: Bottom sides are done. Make the top angle sides and the header and footer but do not cut to the proper fit. You will do that later on.











Cut Anchors: Using the thick wood from the center spine of the pallet, cut off eight 5" pieces of wood.

Mark Anchor Placement: While side is held up in place, slide up one of the pieces of wood you just cut. That will serve as the anchor for the side. Mark the placement with a marker. Put side back down on floor.











Screw Anchors in Place: Pre-drill and screw in 1 3/4" screws in three places on the wood anchor. Use two wood anchors for the one side. Repeat process for the other side.












Screw Sides into Anchors: Put the sides into place. Pre-drill and screw in 1 3/4" screws through the sides into the wood anchor. Do a total of three screws for each anchor.













Measure Footer: Measure the opening at the footing between the two sides. Using your square, measure that on the footer/header piece and cut the footer out with a circular saw.











Screw in Anchors and Footers: Again, mark where a wood anchor is needed for the footer, pre-drill and screw in. Attach the footer to the wood anchor. You can see that I also had a space open for the MIB wiring to fit through.










Screw Sides to Footer: Pre-drill and screw in each side into the footer. I screwed in each board to make it very solid.












Mark, Cut and Screw in Top Sides: Measure the distance from the end of the top angle sides to the header. Using your square, mark off and cut the top angle side side to fit. Mark, pre-drill and screw in anchor wood and attach the top angle side. You'll notice that I had to cut the wood anchor to be shorter. There wasn't enough room for a 5" wood anchor.

Add Cross-member: To add strength, use another cross member to span the side and the angle side together. Pre-drill and screw in from the other side.

Repeat all of this for the other top angle side.












This shows the other side.












Mark, Cut and Screw in Header: Follow same procedure for the footer to attach the header. All the sides are on!












As you can see, there are cross braces everywhere! I hope you remembered to leave a 2 inch clearance at the top or the lid won't fit on.














Make the top even: The lid is on to show that the top edges will have to be evened up so the lid fits nicely.














Mark Depth: Measuring from the bottom plywood, mark the perimeter of the coffin 14 1/2" high. Cut this out with the circular saw.












Cut is done and pretty even.













Screw from Bottom and Extras: To add rigidity, pre-drill and screw in 1 3/4" screws from the bottom up to the cross pieces in the inside. Do that for each one. Also, go around and screw in all loose boards until you feel comfortable that it is strong. I did this because this will end up being a MIB and will take punishment from pneumatics.














Side Accent Pieces: Lid fits nicely. Now it needs an accent piece on both sides. Again screw the accent piece to each board to make it much more rigid and scary.













Now with accent piece. Much scarier.














Mark Rope Openings: To make the rope handles measure and mark two holes 7" apart halfway up from the bottom of the coffin. Get it as close to the angled part of the coffin as you can.














Drill Hole: Drill out with the 7/8 spade bit.












Make Rope Handles and Attach: Cut the manila rope into four lengths (2 1/2' each). Insert one rope into the hole and knot. Repeat for the other side.













Here you can better see the placement.














Attach Lid Hinges: Screw in three 4" black strap hinges (gate hinges) onto the long side of the coffin.













Separate Decor Chain: Separate the decor chain into two 10' lengths.











Attach Chain to Bottom: Slightly hammer in a nail, hook the chain over it and hammer the nail again to bend it over the chain. Drape the chain crosswise over the coffin and pound in another nail to keep in place. The extra chain is draped onto the back nails to add to the rattling sound.












Nail Corners: To keep the chains from falling off the edges put a nail in each corner.











Lock: Place lock where the chains cross each other.

Coat-of-Arms: Screw in the coat of arms plaque near the top of the lid. TADA! You are done :D Let the drinking commence (if you haven't already).





Thanks for checking out this tutorial. ]]> Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/785-pallet-toe-pincher-coffin-tutorial.html Electrical Transformer: Tutorial http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/782-electrical-transformer-tutorial.html Fri, 17 Dec 2010 18:06:44 GMT Electrical transformers are accents you could use in a laboratory scene or electrical room at your haunt. You can make these using some funny things... Electrical transformers are accents you could use in a laboratory scene or electrical room at your haunt. You can make these using some funny things around your workshop. Hey, just like a mad doctor would :p





For a quick rundown of how to put this together, please check this video out:





Materials Needed: (for 2 transformers)
Two trash cans in a good transformer shape
One pool noodle
14" thick manila twisted rope
Four 18" lengths of 3/4" PVC pipe
Two 12" lengths of 1/2" PVC pipe
Two 1/2" PVC elbow connectors
Two 19" lengths of plastic plumber's tape
Two scraps of 1 1/2" foam (6 1/2" long, 3" wide)
Two 12" metal strappings
Four car model wheels or something similar
220 volt sticker
Bullet hole stickers
Portable strobe light
Hot glue sticks
Gray latex Drylok
Monster mud colors (see Grime Up tutorial: http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/...-tutorial.html )

Tools needed:
Ruler
Marker
eXacto knife
Hot glue gun
Dremel with cutting drill bit
Stanley SureForm Shaver
Clamp
Hammer
2" paint brush
1/2" paint brush
Small roller



The right and left pictures are of real transformers. You can use these as a basis for your design. The center picture is the beginning stages of assembly using miscellaneous things found and made in the workshop. Yep, that's a pool noodle!

Insulators: Measure 3/8" on the pool noodle. Insert the eXacto knife into the noodle at an angle and cut off. To start fresh on the pool noodle, cut away the remaining angled section of the pool noodle. Measure another insulator disk and cut off. Repeat until you get 68 of them :eek:

Cut from the pool noodle four 3/4" thick (no angles) sections for the bottom of the insulators that will be at the top of the transformer. Hey, you think this is confusing reading...try writing it! ;)

For the insulator stack that will be off to the side of the transformers, you will be further angle cutting 24 of the disks you already made. Insert the eXacto knife at the 1/8" thickness while angling the knife to meet the inside cut that is already there. Basically you are shaving off some of the pool noodle to make a more severe angle.

Cut two 1 1/2" thick disks (angled) for the top of the side insulator stacks.














Top of Insulators: In the real pictures there's some strange attachments at the top of the insulator stacks that need to be replicated. Cut off four 1 1/2" sections of the pool noodle and draw the approximate shape you are after. Cut out and continue to carve away until it looks good enough. Be sure to keep the center intact so you can mount that to the top of the PVC pipe. Just make it a bit skinnier so it doesn't look like the other insulators. In the right picture, the left piece is complete and the right piece is waiting to have the inside ring made smaller to match and a small hole put in it.
















Carve Wing-nuts: In the real pictures you will see what looks to be giant wing nuts mounted on the front side of the transformers. Again, cut out four 1 1/2" sections of the pool noodle and draw out the basic shape with the marker and cut away. Continue to carve them until they look like what is pictured. Finally, cut out a donut hole from a spare piece of pool noodle and insert into the opening of the wing-nuts to help fill in the void.

Foam shelf: The stack of insulators off to the side of the transformer looks to be sitting on a shelf of some kind. Take the big chunks of foam, mark the general shape and carve away just like you did with the pool noodle sections. Use the Stanley SureForm Shaver to help get the angles. Cut a hole so you can insert the PVC elbow so it will be hidden inside the foam but you will be able to push the PVC stack of insulators into it later.

Assemble insulators: Four of the stacks of insulators are on the larger diameter PVC (3/4"). Place the 3/4" no angled disks onto each PVC pipe leaving the bottom 6" clear. Divide the 44 thicker (angled) insulator disks into four piles and stack evenly onto each PVC pipe. Top each with the strange toppings you carved earlier.

Two of the stacks of insulators are on the smaller diameter PVC pipe (1/2"). Divide the 24 severe angled disks into two piles and stack them evenly onto the 2 PVC pipes leaving the bottom 1/2" clear. Top with the thick disks (angled).

Car Model Wheels: Find four identical items that would work for the small circular items on the front of the transformer. I used four car model wheels.















Drylok: Paint all of these assembled pieces with two coats of Drylok using the 2" and 1/2" paint brushes. Ignore the scrap of fabric in the picture. It was an idea that was not used.
















Assembly

Top Insulators: Turn your trash cans upside down. Measure out where the four stacks of insulators will go on the top of the transformers. If your trash can had handles, try to align the holes with that so it makes a bit more sense. Make the mark for the hole 2" from the edge. Place the PVC pipe where it will go and trace around it. Using your Dremel, cut out the hole 3/4 of the way through leaving the flap attached near the edge. Push in the stacks of insulators. The remaining flap will help angle the stacks and help hold it in place.

Bullet holes: On one of the transformers place three or four bullet hole decals on it.

220 volt sticker: On the other transformer, place the 220 volt sticker on the front.

Hit damage: On the transformer with the 220 volt sticker, draw with a marker the outline of damage from shrapnel. Use the Dremel to cut out 2/3rds of it leaving the flap on the left-hand side. Push in slightly.

Cut the manila rope in half. For both pieces, unravel them at one end. Glue one piece at the top and one at the bottom of the hit damage from the inside of the trash can so it looks like wires were blown out of it.

Foam Piece and Third Stack: On the left side of each transformer, dry fit where the foam piece with the PVC elbow would be on it. The hole for the PVC elbow is about 2" from the top of the transformer. Mark out where you need to cut out the hole for the elbow to insert into the trash can. Try to be sure it will be a snug fit and cut out with the Dremel. Hot glue the foam and elbow and hold in place onto the transformer until the glue cools. Insert the final stack of insulators on both transformers.

Metal Strapping: Mark the metal strapping at the 2 1/2" mark. Clamp it at the edge of your workbench where that mark is and fold it over with a hammer so it's now bent at a clean 90 degree angle. Hot glue the strapping vertically along the transformer where it will help support the foam piece and stack of insulators.

Plumber's tape: Glue one end of the plumber's tape to the underside of the bent metal strapping. Glue the other end to the strapping on the transformer about 1 1/2" down from the bend. Be sure that the plumber's tape keeps it's natural curve so it basically forms a circle. On a real transformer, this is what attaches the transformer to the telephone pole.

Wing-nuts and Wheels: Glue these into place.












Grime Up: Follow the instructions for griming up a prop: http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/...-tutorial.html to give it the final battle damage look. Don't forget to put the battery-operated strobe light inside of the one with the shrapnel damage...




For a video version of how-to Grime Up props:







All done and thanks again for checking out my tutorial...
]]> Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/782-electrical-transformer-tutorial.html Steel I-beams: Tutorial http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/780-steel-i-beams-tutorial.html Thu, 09 Dec 2010 19:35:24 GMT Steel I-beams are critical set pieces for an industrial/factory room in your haunt. Luckily, they are fairly simple to make using foam. Plus, they... Steel I-beams are critical set pieces for an industrial/factory room in your haunt. Luckily, they are fairly simple to make using foam. Plus, they are just fun to have around the house. heheh.






Here's a video of them scattered around the basement:






Items Needed: (to make 6)
One sheet of 2" pink or blue styrofoam
Partial sheet of 1/2" pink or blue styrofoam
Scrap section of 3/4" pink or blue styrofoam
3/4" diameter wood dolly
3 or more tubes of foamboard adhesive
Gray latex Drylok
Monster mud colors (see griming tutorial)

Tools Needed:
Band saw (or table saw)
Jig for band saw (used a furring strip)
2 clamps (to hold jig on workbench)
Caulk gun
Ruler with metric readings
Sharpie
2" paint brush
Small paint roller








Cut Beams (not pictured): Divide your sheet of 2" styrofoam into six planks lengthwise. You should end up with six 8' long 8" wide planks. A table saw would be the easiest tool to cut them apart but I used a band saw (all I had).

Cut Flanges: You will be cutting the 1/2" thick foam into 1/2" strips 8' long to make the small edges of the I-beams. A table saw would, again, be the best tool. If you don't have a table saw then you'll have to make a jig for your band saw to cut the small edges of the steel I-beams. If you have neither tool then perhaps you can cut the strips using some other foam cutter. Just bear in mind that the strips look and glue on better when they are cut in nice straight lines. A jig or table saw makes it easy to stay on target and make the strips fairly fast.

Set-up your jig so the band saw (or table saw) will cut 1/2" wide pieces. You will cut the whole length of the foamboard (8'). For six I-beams you will need 24. If you only had a 4' long piece of foamboard left like I did, then you'd need 48.

Note: In the picture you will see that the pieces cut are smaller than 1/2" wide. This was for another project but was the only picture of the jig I had. Your pieces will be wider.

















Glue Flanges: Using a thin bead of foamboard adhesive, glue the cut side of the flanges to each edge and on both sides of the I-beam. If the glue squishes out the sides, wipe it up with a paper towel.

I like the opposite cut side showing because it has a rougher surface than the smooth side. Seems more like metal to me but it's your preference.
Note: I only had 4' long flanges available so I had to join them up.











Make Hex Nuts and Bolts: Above is an animation to show you how to mark your scrap piece of 3/4" foam to give you the shape of hex nuts. This, by the way, took hours to figure out. Math is hard! :p

Note: To make the needed 144 hex nuts you will need a slightly bigger scrap of foam then shown here. This scrap only made 110 hex nuts.


Step one: Draw horizontal lines 1 1/2" apart from each other on the scrap 3/4" thick foam.

Step two: Use the metric markings on the ruler to mark dots every 2.2cm. So it would be marked at the 2.2, 4.4, 6.6, 8.8, 11, 13.2, 15.4, 17.6, 19.8, 22, 24.2, 26.4, 28.6 and so forth.

Step three: Draw a diagonal line to it's corresponding mark. Skip a dot and draw the next diagonal line. You will start to see the hex design on the nut.

Step four: Draw opposite diagonal lines to complete the markings.

Final picture: I blacked-out the parts that you will cut off so you can see the hex pattern more clearly. You don't need to do this step. I just did it as a better visual for this tutorial.


Cut-out Hex Nuts: Finally, the band saw is the best tool for this. Cut-out all hex nuts.

To finish, cut the hex nuts in half to double the amount of hex nuts you have. You will need 144 of them total. They will be about 3/8" thick. I used a clamp-like jig to keep my fingers safe while doing this.

Cut Bolts: Band saw the 3/4" wood dolly to make 144 'coins' (about the thickness of a nickle). These will be the bolts in the center of the hex nut.


Another way: Dave Lowe has a neat way to make these hex nuts and bolts. You may want to consider this as an alternative: http://davelowe.blogspot.com/2009/08/halloween-09-molding-and-casting-cheap.html











Glue nuts and bolts: Use foamboard adhesive to glue on hex nuts then the bolts. Glue a grouping of four at the top, bottom and center. Repeat for the other side.













Drylok: Paint all I-beams with two coats of gray Drylok.

Grime: Grime up the I-Beams using the 'Grime up Props' tutorial found here: http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/...-tutorial.html but use the rust color as the base color.









That's it! Now, get your kids and show them how strong you are by lifting one up with your pinkie ;)










Another shot of them in the haunt.






Thanks for checking out another one of my tutorials :)
]]> Terra http://www.halloweenforum.com/blogs/terra/780-steel-i-beams-tutorial.html